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BEGINNING WOODWORK 

AT HOME AND IN SCHOOL 
— «v— ^ 

cumroH uuLooN van dcomm 




Class / / L^J, 



Copyright N''- 



COPyKIGIlT DEPOSIT. 



BEGINNING WOODWORK 

At H o m !•; and In S c h o o i. 



Bv 

Clinton Sheldon Van Deusen, M. E. 

Initnicior in Mjnual Arts, Bradley Holytrchnic Inilitutc. 
Illuitiatcd iv 

Edwin Victor Lawrence, 

Inilruclor in Drawing, I'nivcrlit)- of lllinoii. 



The Manual Arts Prhss 

Peoria, Illinois 



UBRARYofMMRESS 
Two eoBies Received 

FEB 14 1907 

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COPVRJGHT 

The Manual Arts Press 
1907 



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FOREWORD 



This book is intended as a definite statement of steps that may 
be followed by a beginner in learning the fundamental principles of 
woodworking. Instead of giving a general discussion of wood- 
working processes, the book describes and illustrates principles by 
means of specific examples. The experience gained in doing these 
problems should enable one to master a large number of others of 
which these stand as types. 

It is believed that this method of treatment of the subject of 
woodworking will prove helpful in both school and home work. 

Clinton S. Van Deusen. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Chapter I — Introduction 7 

Dealing with the equipment, the care of the shop, the tools and materials, and a discussion 
of the principles of working drawings. 

Chapter II — Laying Out and Sawing 15 

Detailed statement of the steps to bo followed in making a game board, with suggestions 
for making similar pieces. 

Chapter III — Planing 25 

Steps to be followed in making a swing board, witli special thought as to the development 
of freedom in hamlling the plane. 

Chapter IV — Planing 'A2 

Steps to be followed in making a bread-cutting board, with suggestions for making similar 
pieces. The rules for planing are followed and special attention is given to accuracy.. 

Chapter V — Curve Sawing and Spokeshaving 41 

Making a coat hanger. 



PAGE 

Chapter VI — Chiseling and Joining 47 

Making the flower-pot stool, with suggestions for making similar pieces. 

Chapter VII — Chiseling and Planing 55 

Making the towel roller. 

Chapter VIII — Fm-niture Making; Keyed Construction 63 

How to make a taboret. 

Chapter IX — Furniture Making; Closed Mortise-and-Tenon Construction 79 

How to make a cane-top stool. 

Chapter X — Application of Principles 90 

Suggestions for applying the princi[)les gi\-cn in this book to future work. 

Appendi.x — Lists of Tools, Materials and Dimensions, Detailed Description of Planes, and Directions 

for Sharpening Tools 95 



BEGINNING WOODWORK 

AT HOME AND IN SCHOOL 

CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Shop. Before beginning the work outlined in this book it will 
be necessary to have what we will call , a shop in which to do the 
work. This may be quite an elaborate building, but necessity de- 
mands only a few square feet of floor space for the work, and even 
if this be in the corner of a room used for some other purpose, it need 
not prevent the doing of excellent work. It is desirable that the 
shop be Well lighted and ventilated, and if it is possible to have 
light from only one direction, it is best to have it come from the left 
end of the bench. 

Bench. A bench with a vise is necessary for supporting the work, 
and while it is possible to use a crude home-made bench and vise, a 
bench such as is used in manual-training shops (Fig. 1) is more de- 
sirable. These can now be purchased at a reasonable price, and 
with careful treatment will last a lifetime. When their permanent 
value is considered, the first cost is a wise investment. The bench 
should be fastened to the floor by two lag-screws passing through 
the middle of the foot-pieces. 





BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK 

Vise. A good vise is a very important item: a cheap one, that 
might last under the careful treatment of an experienced workman, 
will not withstand the treatment of a beginner. A good rule to 
follow in using a vise is to see how loose a piece can be clamped and 
still be held in place. This method is better for both the vise and 
the work, as tight clamping may injure the vise and is also liable 
to mar the work. Vises are made of either wood or metal and con- 
sist of two jaws which are opened and closed by a wooden or iron 
screw, turned by a handle that passes through an eye in the outer 
end of the screw. A modern invention known as a rapid-acting 
vise, Fig. IcS, consists of the same essential parts, but by bringing 
the handle to a vertical position the outer jaw may be moved away 
from the inner jaw far enough to admit the piece which is to be held, 
and then, by turning the handle to the right, the outer jaw is moved 
toward the inner and the piece is fastened securely in the vise. It 
should be remembered that a vise is a machine, and therefore the 
metal parts that rub together should be lubricated occasionally with 
a little oil, or in case a vise with a wooden screw is used, a little 
melted beeswax rulilied on the screw will cause it to work more 
freely. 

Tools. A good workman learns to feel toward and care for his 
tools as if they were his pets, and it should be the purpose of the 
beginner to give so much care to his tools that they will have 
no opportunity to drop from the bench or come in contact with 
metal objects, such as parts of the vise, bench stop, etc. Some offer 



IXTRODUCflOX 



as an objection to a metal vise that tools arc liable to become injureil 
by coming in contact with it, but care on the part of the worker will 
prevent such an accident. A place should be provided for each 
tool and // should be kept in thai phice when not in use. If tools 
are not to be used for a month or more, the bright steel surfaces 
should be coated with vaseline to prevent their rusting. When a 
tool becomes dull do not delay sharpening it, as more time is lost in 
using a dull tool than is required to sharpen it. The method used 
in sharpening chisels and plane irons is explained in the Appendix. 
A workman should acquire ability to keep these tools in good condi- 
tion. The sharpening of saws is not considered within the province 
of this book, but do not work with a dull one; have it sharpened by 
some one who knows how. One more rule should be enforced and 
that is to have a barrel, box or bag in which to keep shavings, and 
to regularly clean up the shop. 

A list of the tools necessary in doing the work outlined in this 
book may be found in the Appendix, page 97. 

Material. One must work with each particular kind of lumber 
in order to acquire a knowledge of its qualities. For this reason, 
it is proposed to use six varieties of lumber in the problems described 
in this book. Each is especially suited to the problem in which it is 
used. Other kinds might be substituted, but not without sacrificing 
some of the advantages of the work. Lumber to be in good condition 
for working should be well seasoned; that is, a large part of the sap 
that was in the wood when the tree was standing should be removed. 





BEGI.X'NIXG WOODWORK 

Seasoned lumber will absorb moisture if kept in a damp place ; there- 
fore it is best to keep it in a dry place. If the entire amount listed in 
the Appendix (page 98) is purchased at one time, it is advisable 
to pile it in layers with an air space between the pieces and with 
adjacent layers extending at right angles to each other. If piled 
in the reverse order from the list given, each piece may be removed 
from the top of the pile as needed. 

A box should be provided in which to keep nails, screws, etc., 
and at no time should they be left loose on the bench or in other 
places where tools might be brought in contact with them and 
thus become injured. 

A list of the material necessary in carrying out the work outlined 
is given in the Appendix, page 98. 

Working Drawings. It is as important that a workman should 
tmderstand working drawings as it is that a correspondent should 
understand the language of a letter he has received. A brief ex- 
planation will give some of the underlying principles of working 
drawings : 

If the first piece mentioned in the list of lumber be laid on 
a taljle it might appear as in cither Fig. 2, .'i or 4, depending on the 
position taken by the observer. On account of this variation in the 
appearance of the same object from different viewpoints, this 
method is not very satisfactory for conveying definite imformation 
in regard to any piece that is to be made, and therefore a plan that is 
c|uite different in many respects is in use. Now consider the same 



INTRODUCTION 



piece with a piece of paper folded as in Fig. 5, so as to form a vertical 
plane in front of the piece and a horizontal plane above it. A rectangle 
might now be drawn on the vertical plane as shown at S, Fig. 5, the 
sides of which will be directly in front of the edges of the piece that is 
back of the plane. This rectangle would be known as the front view 
of the piece. In a similar manner a rectangle might be drawn as shown 
by short dash lines at T, Fig. 5, on the horizontal plane, of such a size 
and in such a position that its sides would be directly over the edges of 
the piece. This rectangle is known as the top view of the piece, and 
if the horizontal part of the paper should now be brought into a verti- 
cal position and dimensions added' we would have what is known as 
the working drawing of this piece. It shows to the workman definitely 
the form and size of the piece and is typical of a large class of working 
drawings in which only the top and front views of the piece are shown. 
Now if one should make a working drawing, in the manner ex- 
plained above, of a cylinder having its axis horizontal and parallel to 
the front, he would find that the drawing would not convey a complete 
and correct idea of the form of the cylinder and some other method 
must be resorted to. In this case it is desirable to consider the paper 
folded as in Fig. 6, so as to form two vertical planes, one in front of the 
object and the other extending back and at right angles to the front 
plane. The front view is a rectangle (U, Fig. 6) on the front plane, 
whose sides are directly in front of the edges and of the upper and 

'Dimensions are omitted in Fig. n for simplicity but the method of placing 
them may lie .seen in Fig. 7. 




BEGIXXIXG \\\X )/J 1 1 •( >KK 




Bo 6 



lower limits of the cylinder. On the vertical plane at the side 
a circle might be drawn as shown by short dash lines at V, Fig. 6, 
that would be directly in line with the edges of the cylinder. This 
would be called the side view, and when this part of the paper is 
brought again in line with the paper in front of the cylinder, and 
dimensions placed on it, we have a working drawing which is typical 
of another large class of drawings in which only the front and side 
views are shown. In making working drawings, edges or limits of 
objects obscured from view by parts of the object itself are shown 
by lines made up of short dashes. Thus the fact that the holes go 
entirely through the game board is shown by the dash lines on the 
front view in Fig. 7. 

A method frequently employed in working drawings is what is 
known as taking a section and if its use is understood the drawing 
is usually clearer. This method consists in imagining a part or all 
of an object cut by an assumed plane and the parts thus cut exposed 
to view. To indicate the surface of a piece or pieces that are cut by 
such a plane, uniformly spaced slanting lines are drawn across the part 
supposed to be cut. When more than one piece is cut, the lines in 
adjacent pieces slant in different directions. The use of sections 
is illustrated in Fig. 41 where an imaginary cut made through the 
middle of the coat hanger shows its form without the necessity of 
showing the end view. 

Another method frequently resorted to in making working draw- 
ings is to imagine a part of the object cut away so as to expose 



IXTRODUCTION 



parts that are in reality covered. This frequently allows the details 
of the construction to be shown more clearly than would otherwise 
be possible. In the working drawing of the taboret (Fig. 74), this 
method is used, a portion of the top being removed to show the form 
and method of joining the legs and braces below. 

Frequently it is not convient to make drawings the full size of 
the object represented and in such cases the drawings are made to 
scale; that is, they are made one-half, one-fourth, or some other 
definite part of the full size. 





BEGINNING 1 VOOU 1 1 'ORK 




CHAPTER II. 
Layixg Out and Sawing. 

This first problem is to give experience in good methods of laying 
out work, sawing, boring and the use of the dowel plate. 

Game Board. The material required is a piece of tulip wood 8" 
long, planed by machine to a width of 4" and a thickness of •'4", an- 
other piece of the same dimensions to use in practice work, and two 
pieces of straight-grain tulip wood about 18" long and {\" square for 
the pegs. 

The tools required are a pencil, a marking gage, a knife, a try- 
square, a rule, a bench-hook, a back-saw. a brace, a ?s" auger-bit, 
a dowel-plate and a mallet. 

The working drawing (Fig. 7) should be studied before starting the 
bench work and an effort made to determine what is to be the length, 
width and thickness of the completed piece, where the holes are to be 
located, etc., and as 3^ou proceed with the work it is well to consult 
the drawing frequently that you may understand the reason for 
the steps, and thus acquire ability to use a working drawing. Be- 
low are given the steps to be followed with details of the methods to 
be used.' 

'Each paragraph and foot note should be read before starting the work 
described therein, and then if you have difficulty in following the instructions 
re-read the paragraph and make sure that you understand it. Technical 
terms have been avoided as far as possible but if any of those used are not 
understood the dictionary should be consulted. 

15 




BEGIXXIXG WOODWi iRK 




(a) Select one of the broad surfaces of the practice piece, and 
with a pencil, mark a light slanting line across it (A, Fig. 9) to designate 
it as the working face, by which term it will be known in referring to 
it later. 

(b) Select one of the narrow surfaces and mark two light slanting 
lines across it (B, Fig. 12) to designate it as the joint side. 

(c) Practice gaging lines on this piece as follows: Set' the gage 
so that the little metal point is 3-'s" from the gage-block. Take the 
gage in the right hand and with the left hand hold the piece against 
the bench-stop so that the joint side is at the right. Place the gage on 
the end of the piece which is toward you (Fig. 9) and with the gage- 
block against the joint side. Now push the gage from you, with the 
top of the iron pin inclined away from you, and at the same time exert 
a slight pressure toward the left to keep the gage-block tight against 
the joint side. \ Do not grip the gage too tight or keep the wrist too 
stiff while gaging. Make a very light line the first time across, and 
then pass the gage over it again making the line to the required depth, 
which should only be deep enougji to make a clear, even line. Now 
increase the set of the gage by J's" for each successive line until it is 
set to 33-'2"; gage slowly and notice that the gage-block is close against 
the joint side at all times. If still unable to make good lines, repeat 
the practice work on the other side of the piece. 

(d) Set the gage as in Fig. 8 so that the metal point is exactly 1" 

'Do not depend on the graduations on the beam of the gage in setting 
it, but use the rule as shown in Fig. 8. 



LAYIMG OUT ASD 5.41I7.Vt; 



from the gage-block. Mark the working face and joint side on the 
piece for the game board and hold it against the bench-stop with the 
working face on top and the joint side at the right. Then with the 
gage-block against the joint side, gage a line the length of the piece. 

(e) Change the set of the gage to 2" and gage the length of the 
piece. 

(f) Change the set of the gage to o" and gage another line the 
length of the piece. 

(g) Practice drawing knife lines across the practice piece as fol- 
lows: Place the piece on the bench with the joint side away from 
you and place the try-square on the piece with the beam (Fig. 10) 
against the joint side and the blade on the working face and near the 
right end. Holding it in this position with the left hand, draw a 
knife line along the edge of the blade with the right hand (Fig. 11). 
Always draw the knife toward you with the handle inclined slightly 
away from the blade of the try-square. When the try-square comes 
so near to the left end that the beam is not well supported, turn the 
piece around with the joint side toward you and place the try-square 
on the piece with the beam against the joint side and the blade near 
the right end (Fig. 12). Draw the line lightty the first time across 
the piece and the second time draw it to the desired depth. 

(h) When able to draw lines well (as explained in g) you should 
practice drawing knife lines square around the practice piece in the 
following manner: Draw a knife line across the working face (as ex- 
plained in g) ; then place the piece in the vise with the beam of the 




BEGIXXIXG WOOmVi >RK 




try-square held tight against the working face (Fig. 13), and draw a 
knife line across the joint side, joining exactly with the end of the line 
drawn first; repeat this on the side opposite the joint side and then 
with the beam against the joint side draw a line on the surface oppo- 
site the working face, joining exactly with the end of the last line 
drawn. If this work has been done carefully, and the beam in all 
cases has been held tight against the working face or joint side, this line 
will also join with the line on the joint side making a continuous line 
square around the piece. 

(i) — Now take the piece for the game board and lay the rule flat on 
the piece with the graduated edge away from you and parallel to the 
gage lines (Fig. 14). With the knife held in a vertical position and 
with the back of the blade against the rule, make light knife marks at 
five consecutive inch divisions, the nearest of these points being at 
least ' ■>" from the end. 

(j) Through the three middle points tlius marked, draw knife 
lines across the working face (as in g) and through the two end points 
thus marked, draw knife line square around the piece (as in h). The 
two lines drawn last, mark what are to be the ends of the piece when 
completed. 

(k) On the surplus wood outside of these lines draw several lines 
square around the piece (as in h) to use as guide lines for practice saw- 
ing. Saw to these lines in the following maner: Place the bench- 
hook (Fig. 15) on the bench with the larger block hooked against the 
front side of the bench and, with the left hand, hold the piece against 



LAY IXC OUT AXD SAWI.XG 



the block on the bench-hook. Take the back saw in your right hand 
and place the end of the saw nearest your hand on the edge of the piece 
farthest from you (Fig. 16) and draw the saw toward you with the 
nearer end of the saw higher than the farther end, the saw blade being 
held steady in the correct place by resting against the forefinger of 
your left hand. By drawing the saw toward you a second time before 
you really start sawing, a fairly deep cut or kerf will be formed, which 
will prevent the saw jumping out of place as it is pushed forward. The 
left hand side of this kerf should come exactly to the knife line you are 
sawing to. Saw with an even stroke but do not press down on the saw. 
Keep the forearm in line with the saw and watch closely the knife line 
as the sawing advances, bringing the cutting edge of the saw very 
gradually to a horizontal position. 

(1) After sawing off a piece, test to see if the end is square with the 
working face and joint side in the following manner: Place the bean: 
of the try-square against the joint side and slide it down until the blade 
touches the sawed surface (Fig. 17). If it touches entirely across the 
sawed end when the beam is tight against the joint side, the end is 
square with the joint side. In a similar manner test to see if the end is 
square with the working face. 

(m) When you can saw well, saw the piece to the length denoted 
by the end lines drawn square around the piece in j. 

(n) Bore a hole ^g" in diameter through the piece at each point 
where a gage and knife line intersect. By holding the end of the brace 
(Fig. 18) — the end into which the bit is to be placed — in one hand, it 




BEGIX.XIXG WOODWORK 




will be found that by turning the middle part or crank around in one 
direction the jaws will open and the tapered end of the ?s" auger-bit 
(Fig. 19) may be dropped between them. The jaws may then be 
closed tightly on the bit. Fasten the piece in the vise with the work- 
ing face in a horizontal position. Place the spur of the bit (Fig. 19) 
exactly at the intersection of gage and knife lines. Hold the bit in a 
vertical position with the left hand on top of the brace and, with the 
right hand, turn the crank part of the brace in a clockwise direction 
as you arc looking down on it, but do not press down on the brace 
(Fig. 18). While boring change your position frequently so as to view 
the bit and brace from different directions that you may detect if it is 
not boring straight. When the spur of the bit pricks through the op- 
posite side, turn the piece over and enter the bit in the hole pricked by 
the spur. Bore out the remainder of the hole, being careful that the 
l)it does not suddenly drop through and splinter the edge of the hole 
on the opposite surface. 

(o) From one of the ,',■," sqviare pieces saw off a piece about 2" 
long. With the knife make a point on one end of it sufficient to enter 
it in the larger hole of the dowel plate. Place the dowel plate so that 
this hole is directly over one of the holes in the top of the bench and 
with the mallet drive the piece through this hole (Fig. 20), using light 
strokes. Do not drive the peg back through the hole to get it free 
from the dowel plate, but whittle a small peg and drive it on through 
the plate. In a similar manner drive it through the smaller hole 
which will bring it to a diameter that will fit freelv in the holes bored. 



LAYING OUT AND SAWING 



Drive at least eight pieces through the dowel plate in this manner, but 
unless the grain is suitable and the driving done with care it may be 
necessarv to drive more than eight pieces before enough good ones are 
obtained. 

(p) Saw a length of l]-/ from the best part of eight of these pieces 
that have been driven through the dowel plate and with the knife cut 
off the edges (Fig. 21) of each end of the pegs at as near as possible the 
slant indicated by the drawing (Fig. 7) . It should be remembered that 
these tapered edges should be in the form of a part of a cone and 
careless use of the knife may cause them to be a disfigurement to 
your piece. 

(q) Four of these pegs should be dipped in ordinary writing ink 
and laid on paper to dry. When these are dry the board is ready for 
playing the game of tit-tat-toe which is familar to all Americans. 

In Fig. 22 a working drawing of the counting board is given which 
requires almost identically the same steps in making as does the game 
board, but in addition the numbers indicated are necessary. These may 
be made with steel stencils, rubber stamps or even with a lead pencil. 
To make use of the counting board it should be fastened to the wall by 
two nails or screws passing through the small holes at the top and bot- 
tom. It may then be used to record any slow counting as the count- 
ing of bushels of grain emptied into a bin, the gallons of oil purchased 
in a year by a family, articles made in a factory, etc. The right hand 
column of holes corresponds with units, the middle column with tens, 
and the left hand column with hundreds. As each article is counted 




BEGINXIXG WUOin 1 '( >RK 




the peg in units column is moved down one hole and as each ten units 
is completed the units peg is returned to the zero hole and the peg in 
the tens column is moved down one hole. In a similar manner, as 
each ten tens is completed the peg in the tens column is returned to 
zero and the peg in the hundreds column is moved down one hole. 
The numbers by the side of the three pegs taken in order indicate the 
count as it stands at anv time. 






LAYING OUT AND SAWING 




23 




COUNTING BOARD 
Fig.ae 




1 1 ' ' 1 1 1 

~^e-^ © -^M^ ©>^ ^K^ o^^^^v 

X 1 1 1 1 1 


1 










II ! 11 11 !; 1 1 II 11 1 ! II 

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 


L 






1 











BEGIXXIXC WOOD] VOR K 







aV/lNG BOARD 






T^ — 
Sim 






i< 






i i 1 i 

11 . 1 1 













CHAPTER III 
Planing. 

On completing this chapter one should have acquired a free 
motion when using the jack and block planes; should have become 
skilled in taking off a shaving where desired; and should have an 
appreciation of the accurac)' possible when using the plane. 

Swing Board (Fig. 2.'?). The material required is a piece of rough 
pine 15"x5"x"s"- 

The tools to be used for the first time are the jack-plane and 
the block-plane. The jack-plane is about lo" long, the several 
parts of which are shown clearly in Fig. 24." The double plane-iron 
(Fig. 25) may be moved in or out of the mouth by turning the ad- 
justing nut (M Fig. 24) thus regulating the thickness of the shaving 
that the plane will cut, and by moving the lever (N Fig. 24) that 
is close under the plane-iron, to the right or left the sharpened end of 
the plane-iron may be made to project an equal distance out of each 
end of the mouth (O Fig. 24) . When planes are not in use they 
should be laid on their side or placed in some other position where 

'The planes shown in Figs. 24 and 26 have been standards for some years 
but other good planes are now on the market and if purchased by a beginner 
he should learn the method of adjustment when purchasing. A portion of 
the appendix is devoted to a further description of these planes, and an explana- 
tion of how to take them apart and put them together is given. If your 
plane is in good condition it is not advisable to read these explanations until 
after the work of this chapter is completed. 




K Plo-ne , 
L-C«.|= 

P-Knob. 
Q-CUtr,(„ns le 



BEGIXXIXG WOOmVORK 






-Ffg, 



23 




the sharpened end of the plane-iron eannot come in contact with 
anything, not even the surface of the bench. 

The block-plane, the parts of which are shown in Fig. 2() is al.)out 
()" long and is made especially for planing across the end of the wood. 
The adjusting nut (T Fig. 26) is placed in a different position but 
changes the thickness of the shaving the same as the adjusting nut in 
the jack-plane. The lateral adjusting lever (U Fig. 2G) serves the 
same purpose as the one on the jack-plane. 

(a) Raise the bench-stop or stops to about half the thickness of 
the piece for the swing board and place the piece lengthwise of 
the bench with a broad surface up and one end resting against the 
bench-stop. 

(b) Stand in an erect position with the left foot a little in advance 
of the right, and with the right side of the body a little back of the 
right end of the piece (Fig. 1). With the jack-plane set for rather 
a light cut, place it on the right end of the piece, holding the handle 
with the right hand and with the left hand resting on the knob at 
the front end of the plane. Now push the plane forward without 
much movement of the body; that is, let the arms swing from the 
shoulders. A downward pressure should be exerted on the knob 
when beginning the stroke, and when finishing the stroke a downward 
pressure should be exerted on the handle. In bringing the plane 
back to begin another stroke raise the plane sufficiently to prevent 
its drawing the piece back. 

(c) Strokes similiar to those described in b should l>e continued 



PLANING 



until the surface appears smooth. It may be desirable some of the 
time to plane only part of the length of the piece, and that should be 
done in one of the following ways : if it is desired to plane from near 
the middle of the piece to the farther end, the plane may be placed 
on the board where desired and pushed to the end, as the starting of 
the shaving will be gradual and no disfiguring mark will be left. 
If, however, it is desired to stop the cut of the plane before reaching 
the farther end, it is necessary to gradually reduce the thickness 
of the shaving as it comes to the end of the cut by raising the back 
end of the plane from the board while the plane is in motion. 

(d) When this entire surface appears smooth, mark a light 
slanting line across it to designate it as the working face. 

(e) Clamp the piece in the vise with one of the narrow sides up 
and hold the plane in a manner similar to that explained in b, 
except that the fingers of the left hand should be allowed to 
extend down by the left side of the plane and piece (Fig. 27) . When 
the side is nearly smooth, try the effect of planing with the center 
line of the plane over the edge formed by this side and the working 
face, still keeping the plane in a horizontal position. Examine the 
shaving cut when the plane was so held, and it will be found that 
the shaving is thicker on that side. A similar result will be noticed 
when the center line of the plane is over the other edge. This 
knowledge will be of use later when you wish to plane more off of 
one part of a narrow surface than another, to bring it square with a 
broad surface. 





BEGIA'NIXG ]VOOin\\>RK 

(f) When this side appears smooth, mark two light slanting lines 
across it to designate it as the joint side. 

(g) Plane the other narrow side in a similar manner until it 
appears smooth. 

(h) In order that you may appreciate how thin a cut may be 
made with the plane, proceed as follows: Set the plane so as to cut as 
thin a shaving as can easily be cut the full width of this narrow side; 
set the gage at j'c" and with the gage-block against this narrow side 
gage the length of the working face; then count the number of full- 
length cuts of the plane on this narrow surface necessary to take off 
that ,',.". It may be found that it has required as many as twenty- 
five cuts to do this, which would mean that each shaving was 4i'||," 
or less in thickness. 

(i) Plane the other broad surface as in b and c until it appears 
smooth. 

(j) Place the bench-hook on the bench with its smaller block 
clamped in the vise and its larger block on top. Place the piece on the 
bench-hook with the joint side against the block. Set the block-plane 
for a thin shaving and place it on its side on the bench, with the face 
of the plane toward the right side of the bench-hook (Fig. 28). Hold 
the block-plane in this position with the right hand, and move it from 
you, keeping it against the right side of the bench-hook. During this 
process the left hand holds the piece against the bench-book and at 
the same time exerts a slight pressure on the piece toward the right. 
The above operation is neither easy to describe nor easy for the begin- 



ner to master. It requires a combination of forces of varying amounts : 
a comparatively strong one exerted by the right hand downward 
to keep the side of the block-plane against the bench, a lighter one 
exerted by the right hand toward the left to keep the lower edge 
of the plane in contact with the lower right hand edge of the bench- 
hook, a still lighter one exerted on the piece by the left hand toward 
the right to keep the end of the piece against the block plane, but 
not strong enough to push the plane away from the bench-hook. 

Continue the above method of block-planing until the end appears 
smooth. 

(k) Block-plane the other end as explained in j. 

(1) Measure the width of one end of the piece and set the gage 
to one-half of this width. With the gage-block against the joint side, 
gage a Hne on the working face a little more than 1" long, one end 
being at the end of the piece. 

(m) With the rule and try-square used as in Fig. 29, measure 
^4" and 1" from the end and draw knife lines about I4" long across 
the line gaged in 1. 

(n) Clamp the piece in the vice with the end up and, laying the 
rule on lengthwise of the end, locate a point y/ each side of the end 
of the gage line made in 1. Draw through each of these points a 
pencil line across the end as in Fig. 30. 

(o) Using the blade of the try-square as a straight-edge, draw 
lines on the working face from the ends of the lines just drawn to 
Ithe point on the gage line 1" from the end. 




BEGixxixc WiH )n\vor<K 




(p) Using the '•_;" bit, bore a liole as in Chapter II, n, at the 
point ''4" from the end on the gage line. 

(q) Place the piece in the vise and saw with the back-saw (Fig. 'A 1 ) 
so that the outer edge of the cut comes to the slanting lines, thus 
completing the notch in one end. 

(r) Following the steps given in 1 to q, make a similar notch 
in the other end, thus completing the swing board. The board is 
intended for a rope '•_>" in diameter. 




PLAN I KG 





CHAPTER IV. 



In the last chapter, aside from getting acquainted with the plane 
and its possibilities, the effort was simply to get the piece of wood so 
that it appeared smooth. In this chapter the effort will be directed 
toward trueness, as well as smoothness; and what are known as the 
"rules for planing" will be followed. 

Bread Cutting Board (Fig. 32). The material required is a piece of 
liultcrnut i:i"xr)i 2"x '-§". The tools to be used for the first time 
are the winding sticks. 

(a) Select the surface desired for the working face, and using the 
straight edge,' test to see if this surface is so curved that the middle is 
higher than the edges. If it is, place the piece against the bench-stop, 
as in Fig. 1, and plane down the middle with the jack-plane until, when 
tested with the straight-edge, the middle is even with or slightly below 
the edges. 

(b) Test the piece, when in this condition, with the winding-sticks 
ti) determine if there is a wind in the surface. To do this proceed as 
follows: Place the piece on the bench with the surface that is to be the 
working face on top and in such a position that you can look length- 
wise of the piece (Fig. 33). Place one of the winding-sticks near the 
farther end extending at right angles to the length of the pieces, with 
the narrow edge on top, and with the bevel edge away from you. Place 

'The blade of the try-square should be used as a straight-edge. 
32 



PLAXIXG 



the other winding-stick on the nearer end in a similar position. Now, 
looking lengthwise of the piece, stoop down slowly so that the eye 
conies below the level of the top of the winding-sticks. As the eye is 
lowered the farther winding-stick will disappear behind the nearer 
one. If there is no wind in the piece both ends of the farther stick 
will disappear at the same time, but if there is a wind in the surface one 
end will disappe^ before the other. If a wind is shown, a little thought 
will determine which two diagonally opposite corners are high, and the 
wind in the surface may be removed by planing down one or both of 
these corners. This should not be done with short strokes just at the 
corners, but the area planed should extend about two-thirds of the 
length of the piece from the high corners toward the low corners. 
Care should be taken that nothing is planed off from the low corners. 

(c) The planing and testing with both the straight-edge and wind- 
ing-sticks should alternate until the surface is as true as you can make 
it; that is, there should be no wind in it, and when tested with the 
straight-edge (Fig. o-t) both lengthwise and crosswise it should show a 
straight surface. Do not be suited with the good-enough kind of 
work, but have patience to work several hours if necessary to get a 
good, true working face. Set the plane very light for the last of the 
planing and study where the surface needs planing before touching the 
plane to it. Headwork is more essential than handwork in finishing 
this surface. 

(d) When you have a true working face mark it with a light slant- 
ing line. 




BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK 




(c) Place the piece in the vise with a narrow side up and plane 
this side (Fig. 27) until it is smooth and fulfills the following tests: 
When the straight edge rests lengthwise on this surface (Fig. ^o) and 
is slid along its entire length, practically no light should be visible 
under the straight edge ; when the straight edge rests on this narrow 
surface crosswise a similar condition should be shown; also when the 
beam of the try-square is held tight against the working face with the 
edge of the blade resting lightly on this narrow surface (Fig. 'M\) no 
light should appear between the blade and this narrow surface, as the 
square is slid along, testing all parts of the surface. This last test is 
to show that this narrow surface, which is to be the joint side, is at 
right angles to the working face. 

(f) When the joint side is completed mark it with two light slant- 
ing lines. 

(g) Measure the width of the piece at both ends and set the gage 
(Fig. 8) at an even eighth-inch mark; that is, about H" less than the 
width of the narrower end.' With gage-block against the joint side, 
gage a line the entire length of the working face. 

(h) Place the piece in the vice with the side opposite the joint 
side up, and plane exactly to the middle of the gage line. When with- 
in about 3'j" of the line, the tests applied to the joint side in e should 

'It will be noticed that the length, width and thickness of the piece are 
omitted on the working drawing to allow some change of dimensions in planing 
this piece. When the rules for planing are referred to in later chapters the 
definite dimensions given are to' be used in gaging. 



be applied to this narrow surface. The plane should then be set for a 
thinner shaving, and, if the tests have not shown the surface true, an 
effort should be made to correct the faults by the time the middle of 
the gage line is reached, but under no circumstances should any plan- 
ing be done beyond the middle of the gage line, even if the surface is 
not as true as it should be. 

(i) With the/middle part of the rule, measure very accurately the 
width of the piece, and see if it is exactly the width selected in g when 
setting the gage. If it is not the exact width intended, an error is in- 
dicated, either in setting the gage, gaging, or planing, and it ma}' be 
desirable to gage another line }/g" less than the other, and try again to 
bring the piece to an exact width. This would not be possible when 
working to exact dimensions, but it is possible here and it is absolutely 
essential that one be able to plane to an exact width if he is to be a 
good workman. 

(j) Set the gage to an even sixteenth mark, which is a little less 
than the thickness of the piece in its thinnest pai^t, and with the gage- 
block against the working face, gage a line the entire length of the joint 
side and the opposite side. 

(k) Place the piece on the bench with an end against the bench- 
stop and plane down to the middle of the gage line, testing with the 
straight-edge only and changing the set of the plane to.a ver}^ light cut 
before reaching the line. 

(1) It is desirable to test accurately the thickness, and if it has not 
been planed correctly, gage again and repeat the planing. 





BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK 

(m) Place the piece on the bench-hook, and block-plane one end 
as described in Chapter III, j, until it is smooth and is square with the 
working face and joint side, testing as follows: Hold the beam of the 
try-square tight against the joint side and slide it down until the blade 
touches the end lightly (Fig. 17). If the end is square with the joint 
side, practically no light will show between the blade and the end of 
the piece. In a similar manner, with the beam of the try-square 
against the working face, test to see if the end is square with the work- 
ing face. 

(n) Measure from this planed end, as in Fig. 14, an even length at 
least 14" less than the present length of the piece, and with the knife 
and try-square draw a line square around the piece through the point 
so determined. 

(o) Saw a little outside of this line ; then block-plane to the knife 
line. Test to see if the piece has been brought accurately to length. 

(p) With the beam of the try-square against the joint side, 
measure so that the edge of the blade is 13^" from one of the ends 
of the piece (Fig. 29) and draw a knife line about }i" long so that 
it will cross the middle of the piece, which point may be determined 
1:)V the graduations on the blade of the try-square. 

(q) Set gage at one-half the width of the piece and gage a 
line about 34" long crossing the knife line. With the -'-s" auger-bit 
bore a hole where these two lines intersect. 

(r) Gage a light pencil line on and entirely arotmd the working 
face, li" from its outer edges, in the following manner: Clamp 



PLAXIXG 

the piece in the vise, with the working face up, so that at least one-half 
of the length of the piece extends beyond and above the vise (Fig. 87) . 
Slide the gage-block to a point nearly 14" from the end of the beam 
which has no metal point. Hold the back of the gage-block against 
the side of the piece with the left hand, and place the right hand 
against the side of the gage-block that is touching the piece, the 
little finger and the one next to it resting against the gage-block, 
thus supporting the hand (Fig. 37), and the thumb and first two 
fingers holding the pencil so that its point is in the notch' in the end 
of the gage-stick. Now, moving the gage along, with both hands 
supported on it, a pencil line is made parallel to the edge of the working 
face. Measure the distance this line is from the edge and if it 
is not 34" from the edge, change the position of the gage-block 
until the line will be 34" from the edge. In the manner described, 
gage a line on the working face across the end that is not in the vise 
and along each side as far as possible. Change the piece in the vise 
so that you can gage on the other end and complete the line around 
the working face. 

(s) Clamp the piece in the vise so that the joint side is on top; 
then hold the gage-block set as in r against the working face and 
mark a pencil line along the entire length of the joint side. In a 
similar manner gage a pencil line across each end and along the side 
opposite the joint side. 

'If there is no notch in the liuck end of the gage-stick, one may readily 
be made with the knife. 





BEGINNING WOODWORK 

(t) Holding the piece on the bench-hook as for sawing, block-plane 
a bevel, or chamfer, down to the pencil line (Fig. ;]8). Hold the 
block-plane so that its center line points diagonally across the 
edge to be planed off, and the sharpened edge of the plane-iron 
is parallel to an imaginary surface containing the two pencil lines, 
then move the plane in the direction of the edge to be planed off. 
Before reaching either pencil line, test with the straight-edge, as in 
Fig. 39, to see that the chamfer is straight across, and notice if the 
edges of the surface just planed are equal distances from the pencil 
lines. Try to have a true surface when the two pencil lines are 
reached, but do not go beyond the lines to correct it. Plane a chamfer 
on the other end in the same way. 

(u) Clamp the piece in the vise with the joint side up and the 
working face toward the bench. Hold the jack-plane as in Fig. 27, 
but tip it toward the bench, so that the sharpened edge of the plane- 
iron is parallel to an imaginary surface containing the two pencil 
lines; now plane off the chamfer to the two pencil lines, testing 
as explained in t. In the same manner, plane the chamfer on the 
other edge. This completes the bread-cutting board. 

Pieces similar in form to the bread-cutting board are in quite 
common use. One made of tulip wood following the working drawing 
in Fig. 40 makes a very convenient board on which to hold work while 
chiseling, to protect the bench from injury. A board made of hard 
wood, such as birch or maple, and of somewhat different dimensions, 
makes a serviceable board on which to cut or pound meat. 



PLANING 



CH15E-LinG BOARD 



-7 T 



ll^ 



*-'5 



— 8' ■ 



1 1 



BKGIWIXG 117 )OD\VnRK 



COAT HANGER 




^#^ 



5ec Tton. 
on M-n 



CHAPTER V. 
Curve Sawing and Spokeshaving. 

In this chapter the method followed in simple modeling, as em- 
ployed in producing a piece of curved outline, is explained. 

Coat Hanger (Fig. 41 .) The material required is a piece of redwood 
16"x2:?4"xJi!" and a No. If) screw-hook. The new tools to be used 
are the turning saw, spokeshave and twist-bit. The spokeshave 
is practically a very short plane with handles on the sides, by means 
of which it may be pulled toward or pushed away from you. The 
thickness of the shaving may be regulated by the adjusting screws. 
The spokeshave is used to form and smooth curved surfaces. 

(a) The working face and joint side should be planed as in 
Chapter IV, a to f. 

(b) Do not gage or plane the piece to width but smooth the 
side opposite the joint side with a few strokes of the plane. 

(c) Gage the thickness (1)' of the piece from the working face on 
the joint side and the side opposite. 

(d) Plane to thickness as in Chapter IV, k. 

(e) With the block-plane bring the piece to the exact length 
(2) in a manner similar to that described in Chapter IV, m to o. 

'From this point on, the student should try to determine the dimensions 
from the working drawing, but if he is unable to do so or wishes to check his 
results, the dimensions which are denoted in the text by numbers may be 
found in the appendix at the end of the book. 

41 




BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK 




(f) Set the gage to ^s", and with the gage-block against the joint 
side, gage a line across each end as in Fig. 42. 

(g) Place the try-square on the piece with the blade on the 
working face and the beam against the joint side. Now hold the 
try-square with the left hand (Fig. 29) and move it to the distance 
(.')) from the end necessary for locating the first two points for the 
curves: then using the graduations on the blade of the try-square 
make marks (Fig. 43) with a sharp pencil at the correct distances 
(4 and 5) from the joint side. By a similar method locate (6) the 
next pair of marks (7 and 8) , also locate (9) the middle points (10, 3). 
The points on the other end are located in the same way. 

(h) With a pencil draw a light line through the five points 
farthest from the joint side, extending it to the ends of the gage 
lines that were made on the ends of the piece, and in a similar manner 
draw a line through the five points nearest the joint side extending 
it to the corners of the working face next to the joint side. By mak- 
ing the lines light at first, corrections may easily be made in them until 
smooth cur\^es are formed. 

(i) Clamp a practice piece in the vise and try sawing irregular 
curves with the turning saw, holding the saw as in Fig. 44; continue 
the practice work until able to control the saw. It will be noticed 
that by turning the handles the blade of the saw may be turned to 
different positions with reference to the frame, thus making it possible 
to a\-oid obstructions that are in the wa)' of the frame, but be sure 
that the saw blade is not twisted. 



CURVE 5.4II7A^ff AND SPOKESHAVIXG 



(j) Now clamp the piece for the coat hanger in the vise as in 
Fig. 44 and saw about Vs" outside of the curve for the top of the coat 
hanger. Start the saw near the middle and saw to the end, taking 
notice that the blade is kept perpendicular to the working face. 
Change the piece in the vise so that the corner of the piece diagonally 
opposite will be clamped in a similar position in the vise, and saw 
from the middle to the other end of the piece. 

(k) Now clamp the piece in the vise as in Fig. 45 and saw about 
^.-g" outside of the lower curve. Saw from the end to about the mid- 
dle of the piece. Change the position of the piece in the vise and 
saw from the other end until the saw cut made from the opposite end 
is reached. 

(1) Using one of the scrap pieces sawed off in j as a prop, clamp 
it and the coat hanger in the vise as shown in Fig. 46. Now with 
the spokeshave (Fig. 47) cut as in Fig. 46 from the middle to the end 
on the convex side until the pencil line is reached. A test should 
be made with the tr^r-square before the line is reached to determine 
whether this surface is square with the working face and if it is not 
an effort should be made to con-ect the defect bj' the time the line 
is reached, but do not go beyond the line to do it. In a similar manner 
smooth down the remainder of the curve bv cutting from the middle 
toward the other end. 

(ml With the beam of the try-square against the working face 
and the blade extending across the surface just finished, draw a knife 
line square across this surface c^■cn with the middle point marked in g. 




BEGIXNIXG WOOD I VOR K 




Set the gage at JV' and with the gage-block against the working face 
gage a short Hne crossing the knife Hne. Where these hnes cross, 
bore a hole for the hook 1" deep, using the ^Y' twist-bit (Fig. 48). 
To do this, fasten the bit in the brace and measure the length of the 
bit exposed outside of the brace. Then bore the hole until 1" less 
than that amount is exposed between the brace and the wood. Use 
care that the hole is bored straight. 

(n) Clamp the piece and prop in the vise as in Fig. -19, and with the 
spokeshave, cut from the end toward the middle on the lower or 
concave side until the line is reached, testing with the try-square as 
in 1. Reverse the piece in the vise and smooth the remainder of the 
concave side in a similar manner. Great care must be used when 
working near the ends on the concave side as the curve should be 
concave entirely to the end, and at the same time nothing should be 
cut from the edge that was orignally formed by the joint side and 
end. 

(o) Hold the pencil as in Fig. 5i> and try gaging a pencil line 
parallel to and near the edge of a practice piece, using only the hand 
and pencil. When able to do this well gage a light line in a similar 
manner i^" from the convex edge on both the working face and 
the surface opposite. Also gage two lines on the convex surface, 
one of them W' from the working face and the other ,■',;" from the 
opposite surface. 

(p) Again clamp the piece in the vise, and with the spokeshave, 
cut two bevels, or chamfers, on the convex side down to these pencil 



CURVE SAWING AND SPOKESHAVING 



lines (Fig. 51.) Test with the straight-edge as in Fig. .39 to make 
sure that each of these bevels is straight across and not left high in 
the middle. This will form three surfaces on the convex side. One 
is a part of the orignal surface and the other two are the bevels just cut. 

(q) The two parellel edges that now run lengthwise of the 
convex side should be cut off with the spokeshave, forming two 
narrow surfaces in their places. Each additional cut widens these 
surfaces but the cutting should not continue after the width of each 
of the new surfaces is the same as the part that remains of the three 
original surfaces. This should make five equal-width surfaces and 
four parallel edges. 

(r) If this work of modeling, as it is called, has been done with 
care it will be possible to continue the process still further by form- 
ing four new surfaces in place of the four edges, making nine equal- 
width surfaces, but do not touch the spokeshave to the work unless 
sure that an edge can be replaced by a surface narrower than those 
already on the piece. 

(s) With a piece of No. i o sandpaper about o"x4" rub this 
surface as shown in Fig. 52 until the the surface is as smooth as 
the planed surfaces. Screw the hook into the hole made in m and 
the coat hanger is ready for use. 




BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK 



FLOWER POT 5T00L 



hTp.v55 



I //'^ 1 



T I 

I I 
jL 



3i^ 



CHAPTER VI. 

CmSELIXG AND JoiXINC. 

The work of this chapter is given as a means of acquiring a 
knowledge of the fundamental principles of laying out and cutting a 
joint, and it will also emphasize the accuracy necessary in this class 
of work. 

Flower Pot Stool. (Fig. o)?). The material required will be a 
piece of white pine l'.i"Kl\'2"^H" for the cross-pieces, and one 9"x 
1 J-s"x5g" for the feet, also sixteen 1" brads. The new tools to be used 
are the chisel, hammer and nailset. 

(a) Plane the piece for the two cross-pieces of the flower-pot 
stool to the required width (11) and thickness (4) by a method similar 
to that explained in Chapter TV, a to k, but, of course, set the 
gage to the width and thickness given in -the working drawing; 
no second trials will be possible in planing this piece. Mark the 
working face and joint side in two places, as later it is to be cut into 
two pieces. 

(b) Block-plane both ends of the piece as in Chapter IV, m. 

(c) From each of these block-planed ends measure the length 
(12) of each of the pieces which are to form the cross, and draw 
knife lines square around the piece at the two points so determined. 
Do not cut this into two pieces until directed to do so in s. 

(d) Consulting the working drawing determine the distance (13) 
from the end of one of the cross-pieces to the nearer edge of the 

47 




BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK 




joint. From one end of the piece of wood measure (as in Fig. 29) 
this distance on the working face, and as in Fig. 14 measure on from 
this point the exact width (11) of the joint, which is equal to the 
width of the piece of wood. 

(e) With the beam of the try-square against the joint side, 
draw knife lines across the working face through these two points, 
and with the beam of the try-square against the working face extend 
each end of these lines down }>i" on the joint side and the opposite side. 

(f) On the surface opposite the working face measure from the 
other end of the piece the distance (18) to the nearer edge of 
the joint and then measure on from this point the exact width (11) 
of the joint. 

(gi With the beam of the try-square against the joint side, 
draw knife lines across this surface through these two points, and 
with the beam of the try-square against the working face extend 
each end of these lines to within 1:4" of the working face on the joint 
side and the opposite side. 

(h) Determine the distance (14) that the horizontal joining 
surfaces are to be above the bottom of the cross-pieces, and set the 
gage equal to this distance. With the gage-block against the working 
face, gage a line between each of the two pairs of knife lines on the 
joint side and the side opposite. 

(i) Place the piece on the bench-hook with the working face 
up and with the end of the piece having the knife lines on that surface 
to the right. Saw with the back-saw so that the right side of the 



CHISELING AMD JOINING 



saw cut comes exactly to the knife line that is nearer to the end. 
Saw until the points of the saw teeth just come, at the same time, 
to the gage line on the joint side and the side opposite. Great care 
should be 'used in doing this sawing. 

(j) In a similar manner make another saw cut so that the 
left side of the cut comes exactly to the other knife line, and saw 
down to the gage lines. 

(k) Turn the piece over so that the surface opposite the working 
face is on top, and with the knife lines for the joint near the right 
end; then saw to the gage lines as in i and j. 

(1) Clamp the piece in the vise in a slanting position with the 
working face on top and so that the part between the two saw cuts 
which is to be chiseled out is a little above the bench and to the right 
of the vise (Fig. 54). Hold the handle of the chisel in the right hand 
and the blade, with its bevel on top, between the thumb and fingers 
of the left hand, which should rest against the front side of the piece. 
Push the chisel in a direction at right angles to the length of the piece, 
and with cutting edge slightly inclined to the surface of the piece, 
so that the left end of the cutting edge moves in a line near the left 
saw cut and the right end is raised to such a height that it is just 
above the surface of the wood. In this manner a cut is made about 
half way across the piece. The left hand being held stationary 
against the piece, the pressing together of the thumb and fingers 
may be used to keep the chisel from cutting too far. 

(m) The second cut should be made in a similar manner about 





BEGINNING WOODWORK 

half wav across the piece, but the right end of the cutting edge of 
the chisel should be lower than the left and should cut near to the 
right saw cut. The left end should be just above the surface of the 
wood. 

(n) Alternating cuts similar to those in 1 and m should be made 
until the lower edge of the chisel cuts about half way down to the 
gage line. 

(o) Reverse the piece in the vise so that the part just chiseled 
is on top and a little to the left of the vise. This brings toward the 
worker the part between the two lines that has not been chiseled out. 
Then alternate the cuts as described in 1 and m until the lower edge 
of the chisel cuts to the gage line. 

(p) Change the position in the vise to that used in 1, and continue 
the alternating cuts until the lower edge of the chisel cuts to the gage 
line. If the chiseling has been well done a low distinct ridge of wood 
will extend across the piece midway between the two sawed surfaces. 

(q) With the piece clamped as in o, pare of? the middle of this 
ridge holding the chisel as above, except that the cutting edge is 
parallel to the gage line {Fig. 55). Pare half way across and to 
within about ■^^" of the gage line: then reverse the piece and do 
the same from the other side. 

(r) Clamp the piece in the vise with the joint side up and the 
partlv made groove near the middle of the vise. With the left hand, 
hold the chisel in a vertical position with the sharp edge in the gage 
line and the bevel toward the groove (Fig. 56). Use the palm of the 



CHISELING AND JOINING 

right hand as a mallet and strike the handle of the chisel a light blow. 
This will make a good, right-angled edge exactly where it should be. 
Turn the piece over in the vise and do the same on the side opposite 
the joint side. Clamp the piece and hold the chisel as in q; then 
pare out the bottom of the groove until it is a true surface, testing 
it with the straight edge (Fig. 57). Great care must be used that 
the chisel does not slip and cut the sharp right-angled edges. This 
completes the cutting of the first groove. The second should be 
made in the same way. 

(s) After the second groove is completed the piece should be 
sawed into two parts. Saw each part about jv-j" longer than the 
length indicated by the knife lines, and block-plane them to their 
correct length. 

(t) Determine from the working drawing the distance (14) 
the pencil lines for the chamfer should be from the edge formed by 
the ends and the surface opposite the working face, then lay out the 
chamfer on the ends of the two pieces as explained in Chapter IV, 
r and s, and block-plane the chamfers as in Chapter IV, t. In this 
block-planing, care should be used that the center line of the plane 
is held at a considerable angle with the edge being planed or the 
corners will be splintered. When the chamfers are completed the 
two pieces may be put together. If a good joint has been made, 
they may be forced together with the hands and will not fall apart 
of their own weight. 

(u) Next take the piece for the feet, and by a method similar 




BEGINNING WOOD WORK 




to that explained in Chapter IV, a to k, plane to width (5)' 
and thickness (15), marking working face and joint side in at 
least four places; then block-plane one end. From this block-planed 
end, measure the length (16) of one of the feet of the flower-pot 
stool; then square around the piece at this point with the knife and 
try-square. Saw a little longer than the length indicated; then 
block-plane to length. Again, block-plane the end of the piece 
that is left, and continue as above, making each of the other feet 
as explained. 

(v) One of these feet should be nailed under each end of the 
cross-pieces, and should have its working face against the cross-piece. 
Four 1" brads should be used. The two outer ones should be a little 
closer together than the two inner ones, and should be slightly in- 
clined so that the points will not be liable to prick through the chamfer. 
Drive the nails into one of the feet until the points just prick through ; 
then place it on the cross-piece, changing its position until there is 
a uniform margin at the end and on each side of the cross-piece. 
This may be determined by measuring, as in Fig. 58. 

(w) The nails should not be driven entirely in with the hammer, 
as it will mar the surface of the wood, but by using the nailset as in 
Fig. 59, they may be driven in until their heads are slightly below 

'The length of a piece of wood is iisally measured in the direction of 
the grain, even if that is shorter than the width, which is measured crosswise 
of the grain. The grain of wood in the feet is to extend in the same direction 
as that in the piece to which it is attached. 



CHISELING AND JOINING 



the surface. In using the nailset it should be held in the left hand 
with one finger resting on the piece of wood and against the side of 
the nailset as in Fig. 59. This serves as a support to hold the point 
of the set on the head of the nail while the top of the nailset is struck 
a light blow with the hammer. This completes the flower-pot stool. 
This piece as completed might be used as a base for a small Christ- 
mas tree. In this case it would be well to bore a hole of the required 
size for the lower end of the tree through the middle of the upper 
part of the joint and a smaller hole through the lower part of the joint. 
Through this smaller hole a screw could be entered from below into 
the body of the tree. A piece made in the same manner but to 
larger dimensions would make a good base for a large tree. 





BEGIN XING 1 1 -00 D 1 1 'ORK 



TOWEL ROLLER 



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CHAPTER VII. 

Chiseling and Planing. 

In this chapter, work of a different kind is done with the chisel 
and, in addition, good experience is gained in planing a cj'lindcr 
and in fastening pieces together. 

Towel Roller (Fig. 60). The material required is three pieces of 
cypress — one for the back 193'i"x3i^-s"X/-'s". one for the ends 7"x2"xl", 
one for the roller 18%"xl3/^"xl3^'^— four 1" No. 10 flat-head, bright 
screws, and two IJ^" No. 10 flat-head bright, screws. The tools 
to be used for the first time are the compass, countersink and screw- 
driver. 

(a) Plane the piece for the back by the rules for planing. Chapter 
IV, a to o, to dimensions (17, 18, 15). 

(b) To locate the holes for the screws, place the try-square on 
the piece, with the beam against the joint side and the blade on the 
side opposite the working face. Using the rule as in Fig. 29, move 
the try-square to such a position that its edge shall be i',;" from 
the end and draw two short knife lines about %" from each side. 
Set the gage to ^'^" and gage from the joint side and from the side 
opposite, making- short gage lines crossing the short knife lines. 
In the same way make two knife and gage lines for the two holes at 
the other end of the piece. In a similar manner locate the holes 
for fastening the towel roller to the wall, l?s" from each end and 
114" from the joint side. 

55 





BEGINXIXG WOODWORK 

(c) Place the i\" auger- bit in the brace and bore six holes through 
the piece at the points indicated by the cross lines. 

(d) Place the countersink (Fig. 61) in the brace and countersink 
the two holes at each end on the side opposite the working face and the 
other two on the working face until, when one of the screws is placed 
in a hole, the top of the head is slightly below the surface. 

(e) Plane the piece for the ends, by the rules for planing, to 
width (19) and thickness (20), and block-plane each end square as 
in Chapter IV, m. Measure from each of these ends the length of 
the end piece (18) and make a knife line square around the piece at 
each of these points. 

(f) Using very light lines, locate on the side opposite the working 
face two points as centers of the quarter circles, each point to be %" 
from the side opposite the joint side and %" from each end, using 
the same method that was used in b. Set the pencil compass to ^i;" 
and draw quarter-circles using as centers the points where the knife 
and gage lines intersect (Fig. 62) . 

(g) Place the piece flat on a cliiscling board' with the working 
face down and the comer to be rounded, away from you. Hold 
the piece in this position by resting the back of the left hand on the 
piece; then take the larger chisel in the right hand so that the Httle 
finger is at the end of the handle nearer the blade (Fig. 63). Take a 
thin cut off the corner by pushing the chisel down in a vertical direction , 

'If no chiseling board has been ])ro\-icii.'(l, tlie praclice jiicce used in Chapter 
1 1 will do vcrv well for a substitute. 



CHISELIXG Ah'D PLAXIXG 

the blade being held between the thumb and first finger of the left 
hand. By pinching the thumb and finger together they will aid 
in controlling the cuts of the chisel. Continue this chiseling until 
the surface is tangent to the quarter-circle; that is, until it touches 
it in one point. Before this chiseling is completed, the surface should 
be tested to see if it is coming square with the working face. It is also 
desirable that this surface should make equal angles with the end 
of the piece and the side opposite the joint side. . Two parallel 
vertical edges are formed by this chiseling. These edges should 
be chiseled off in the same manner as above until two surfaces are 
formed in place of the two edges; these surfaces should be tangent 
to the quarter-circle. If the work has been carefully done there 
will be three equal-width surfaces and four parallel vertical edges. 
In a similar manner continue the chiseling until four very narrow 
surfaces have been made tangent to the quarter circle in place of 
the four edges. There will then be seven equal-width surfaces. 
This will probably be as far as this process can be continued, but 
-it should be carried further if an edge can be replaced by a suface 
narrower than those just made. Clamp the piece in the vise (Fig. 64) , 
and with a piece of No. y> sandpaper wrapped around a small block, 
rub the rounded surfaces until they are smooth and the grain of the 
wood has a clear appearance. 

(h) By the same method as used in b, locate on the working 
face of this piece two points each IJ's" from each end and ;§" from 
frhe joint side. 





BEGIXXING H 'OOD WORK 

(i) At the points located in h, bore with the j I" auger-bit until 
the lips (Fig. 19) of the bit are just ready to raise a chip. Then with 
the rule measure the distance from the surface of the piece to the 
chuck of the brace (Fig. 65). Now bore until the distance from 
the surface to the chuck is Ju" less than when first measured. This 
indicates that the bit has bored that distance. 

(j) Set the gage to the distance that the nearer side of the hole 
in the part that is to be the right end piece is from the joint side, 
and gage from the hole to the nearer end of the piece. Continue this 
gage line about half-way across the end, keeping the gage-block 
against the joint side. Now change the set of the gage to the distance 
the farther side of the hole is from the joint side, and gage as before 
to the end of the piece and about half-way across the end. Set the 
gage to the same distance (21) as the depth of the hole and 
with the gage-block against the working face, gage a line between the 
two lines that were gaged half-way across the end. 

(k) Clamp the piece in the vise with the working face up and the 
end on which the gage lines were made at the right and a little above 
the top of the bench. With the i%" chisel remove the wood bounded 
by these lines between the hole and the end of the piece. First, cut 
as in Fig. 66, making a groove a little wider than the chisel, and nearly 
down to the gage line. Turn the chisel on edge and pare out nearly to 
the other gage lines. Now using the chisel as in Chapter VI, r, form 
good right-angled edges where the gage Hnes are, and continue the 
paring until the groove is of a uniform width and depth. 



CHISELING AND PLANING 



(1) Now bring the two end pieces to length by sawing a Uttle be- 
yond the knife lines that were drawn around the piece in e, and then 
block-plane each piece to the knife Hne. Using the pencil and try- 
square as in Fig. 30, draw pencil lines across each of these block-planed 
ends parallel to and as far from the joint side as the width (22) of the 
bottom of each end piece. In a similar manner draw pencil lines 
across the sides opposite the joint sides parallel to and as far (11) 
from the ends block-planed last as the obtuse-angled corner is to be 
above the bottom of the end piece. With the straight-edge and knife, 
draw lines on the working face and the surface opposite, connecting the 
ends of these pencil lines. Clamp the piece in the left end of the vise 
so that these knife lines are vertical, and saw a little outside of the line. 
Next, clamp the piece in the vise with this sawed surface in a horizon- 
tal position, with the wider end of the piece to the right and then 
block-plane to the lines. 

(m) Now clamp one of these end pieces in the vise with the joint 
side up, and place the back piece on it with its working face down, its 
end even with the surface of the end piece opposite the working face, 
and its sides even with the ends of the end piece. Hold it in this po- 
sition; then place the two screws in the holes in the back and strike 
them lightly with the hammer (Fig. 67). Now with the r-j" twist-bit, 
bore a hole y>" deep at each of the points located by the screw points. 
In a similar manner the two holes for the screws may be located and 
bored in the other end piece. The back may now be screwed to the 
two end pieces by using the screwdriver (Fig. fiS). 





BEGINNING WOODWORK 

(n) Plane the piece for the roller by the rules for planing to 
length (23), width (II), and thickness (11). In block-planing the 
ends of such a piece as this it is not convenient to use the bench-hook 
but the piece should be clamped in the vise (Fig, 69) . and planed from 
each comer toward and about two-thirds of the way to the diagonally 
opposite corner, testing with the try-square to determine when it 
is square with the working face and joint side. 

(o) Draw knife lines square around the piece I'u" from each end; 
then set the gage to \\" , and with the gage block against the working 
face, gage from these knife lines to the ends of the piece on the joint 
side and the side opposite and across each end. Also, with the gage- 
block against the joint side, gage from these knife lines to the ends of 
the piece on the working face and the surface opposite and*across each 
end. Now change the set of the gage to \l" and gage again in the 
same maner as above. 

(p) Clamp the piece in the vise in a vertical position with the 
working face to the front, then with the back-saw start a cut in the end 
of the piece, so that the left edge of the saw teeth will just cut to the 
center of the right hand gage line (Fig. 70). Use great care in doing 
this sawing and continue it until about s's" from the knife line. In a 
similar manner saw so that the right side of the saw teeth cut to the 
center of the left hand gage line. Turn the piece in the vise so that the 
joint side is toward the front and make two more saw cuts as above. 
Now place the piece on the bench-hook, and holding it as in Fig. 16, 
saw off the pieces outside of these saw cuts, sawing so that the left side 



CHISELING AND PLANING 



of the saw teeth cut exactly to the knife line. This will form a square 
prism projecting from the end of the piece. In the same manner form 
a similar prism on the other end of the piece. 

(q) Draw two light knife lines across any part of the working face 
exactly IJ-I" apart; these lines with the parts of the edges between 
them will form a square. Measure accurately the length of the diag- 
onal of this square and set the gage to exactly one-half the length of 
this diagonal. With the gage-block against the working face gage a 
light line the entire length of the joint side and the side opposite. In 
a similar manner place the gage-block against each of the other three 
surfaces and gage two lines. This will make two gage lines on each 
surface. 

(r) Clamp the piece in the vise with one of its edges upward and 
above the top of the vise. Plane off this edge with the jack-plane, 
forming a chamfer (Fig. 71). Continue planing until just down to 
the gage lines made in q, testing the chamfer with a straight-edge 
(Fig. 39) . In a similar manner plane a chamfer in place of each of the 
other three edges. The piece for the roller should now have eight 
equal-width surfaces. Mark a pencil line across each of these eight 
surfaces. The center line of each of these will be on the finished roller. 

(s) Clamp the piece in the vise again with one of its eight edges 
upward and above the top of the vise; then with the jack-plane take 
off a few cuts forming a narrow surface in place of the edge. En- 
deavor to have this new surface make equal angles with the two sur- 
faces adjacent to it. In a similar manner form a new surface in place 




BEGINNING WOODWORK 




of the seven other edges. The roller now has sixteen surfaces and 
unless too heavy cuts have been taken the eight new surfaces are nar- 
rower than the eight original ones which have the pencil marks on 
them. A little at a time should be planed from each of the newly 
made surfaces until all sixteen surfaces are of the same width. Make 
a pencil line on the eight new surfaces. 

(t) Following the same method as in s, with the plane set light, 
the sixteen edges may be replaced by sixteen surfaces of such a width 
that there will be thirty-two equal- width surfaces, and it is possible 
that some may be able to continue the process until sixty-four equal- 
width surfaces are formed, but do not touch the plane to the roller un- 
less sure that an edge can be replaced by a surface narrower than those 
already on the piece. 

(u) B}^ a method similar to that used in planing the roller the 
square prisms on the ends of the roller may be made round, using the 
chisel instead of the plane. In doing this work make sure that each 
step is well completed before starting the next. 

(v) The surface of the roller may now be smoothed by wrapping 
a piece of sandpaper around the roller and rubbing it lengthwise until 
the surface is smooth and the grain of the wood is brought out clear. 
The roller may now be placed in position by inserting one end in the 
hole in the left end piece and sliding the other end down the slot in the 
right end piece. Two 13^2" No. 10 flat-head screws should be used 
to fasten the completed piece to the wall. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
Furniture Making — Keyed Construction. 

The purpose of this chapter is to make clear the manner in which 
the principles already learned may be appHed in working out simple 
problems in furniture construction. In this class of work it is necess- 
ary to use special care in laying out pieces that are to be in different 
parts of the completed piece of furniture but are to be of equal length. 
It will therefore be noticed that, where possible, pieces which are to 
be of the same dimensions are laid out together. Thought should 
also be given to determining where the working faces and joint sides 
of the various pieces are to be placed. All gaging for joints should be 
done from these surfaces, and all gaging with the same setting of 
the gage should be done at one time. 

Taboret (Fig. 74.) The material required is a piece of chestnut 
4' 2" long, 13)2" wide, and Y^' thick^if suppHed with saws to cut it up ; 
or the lumber may be purchased cut to the following dimensions; four 
pieces 18"x23.|"xJ^" for the legs, two pieces W}'2' ^-^ i" ^~ '•^' for the 
lower braces, two piece 14i^"x23/^"x%" for the upper braces, one 
piece 12"xl"x^" for the keys, and two pieces 16"x8"xJ,s" for the 
top. There will also be needed four lYi No. 10 round-head blue 
screws for fastening on the top, a small bottle of liquid glue, a 2-oz. 
bottle of strong ammonia, and about 1 oz. of four parts boiled oil 
and one part hard oil finish. The following is required for the clamps; 
two pieces of cheap pine "two by four", each two feet long, for the 

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BEGINNING WOODWORK 

main parts of the clamps, two pieces of tulip wood 13"x2l2"xl34" for 
the blocks of the clamps, a piece of tulip wood VS"x.l%"xl}4" for the 
wedges, also twelve 2^:1" No. 14 round-head blue screws and twelve 
?4" washers. 

If the chestnut is bought in one large piece it should be laid out 
with a straight-edge and pencil in the manner and to the dimensions 
indicated in Fig. 72. Then using the rip-saw (which has teeth sharp- 
ened across their entire width like a blunt chisel) cut on the lines run- 
ning lengthwise of the grain. Many beginners have difficulty in follow- 
ing a line with a rip-saw, but if the saw is in good condition and as 
soon as the saw begins to leave the line a twisting force is exerted by 
the wrist in a direction to draw the saw back to the line, ability will 
soon be acquired to saw quite straight. The cross-cut saw (Fig. 73) 
should be used in sawing on the lines crosswise of the grain. This 
saw has teeth that are sharpened on their slanting edges. 

The tools to be used the first time are the rip and cross-cut saws, 
the bevel and the handscrew. 

(a) Plane each of the four pieces for the legs by the rules for 
planing to the length (24), width (.'-5), and thickness (22) given in 
the working drawing, (Fig. 74. ) 

(b) Plane each of the two pieces for the lower braces by the 
rules for planing to length (25), width (3), and thickness (22). 

(c) Plane each of the two pieces for the upper braces to 
width (8) and thickness (22). Then with knife and try-square draw 
a line across the joint side of one of these pieces about M" from one 



FURXITCRE MAKING — KEYED CONSTRUCTION 



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BEGINNING WOOD WORK 

end, and draw a knife line square across the working face joining 
with this line. On the edge formed by the working face and the side 
opposite the joint side, measure toward the middle of the piece ]4." 
from the end of the last line drawn. Place the bevel (Fig. 75), with 
its blade loosened, on the piece so that the beam is against the joint 
side, and move the bevel and adjust the blade (Fig. 76) until the edge of 
the blade passes through the last point located, and the end of the 
knife line that was made on the joint side. Now tighten the blade in 
this position, and with the knife, draw a line through the two points 
referred to. Without changing the set of the bevel, draw another 
line directly opposite this one, lay placing the beam of the bevel 
against the joint side and the blade on the surface opposite the working 
face, the line joining with the end of the line on the joint side. Place 
the beam of the try-square against the working face, and draw a 
knife line across the side opposite the joint side, joining with the end 
of the line on the working face. If all of the lines have been drawn 
carefull)- this line will join with the end of the slanting line on the 
opposite surface, thus making a continuous knife line around the piece. 
Saw with the back-saw a little outside of this line, and block-plane 
to the line. Measure from the block-planed end on the joint side 
the length of the brace (25), and through the point so determined, 
draw a knife line square across the joint side. Without changing 
the set of the bevel, place the beam against the joint side and draw a 
knife line on the working face and the surface opposite, joining with the 
ends of the line on the joint side, and slanting toward the middle of the 



FURNl T URE MA KIXG — KE YED CONST R UCTIOX 



piece. Then with the try-square and knife, draw a line across the side 
opposite the joint side which should make a continuous line around 
the piece. Saw a little outside of this line and block-plane to the 
line. In the same manner work the piece for the other upper brace 
to the desired length with slanting ends. 

(d) Clamp the four pieces for the legs in the vise in the following 
position : The working faces of the front and back pieces should be in 
contact with the front and back jaws of the vise respectively, and the 
working faces of the two middle pieces should be in contact with each 
other. The joint sides of all four pieces should be on top, and should 
be on the same level. Use the try-square, as in Fig. 77, to bring the 
ends of all four pieces even. Now from one end, measure on the 
joint side of one of the legs the distances the lower (26) and the upper 
,27) edges of the mortise' are to be from the bottom of the leg. From 
the opposite end measure the width (8) of the upper brace. Now 
placing the try-square as in Fig. 77, make light knife marks even 
with these points on each edge that the blade of the try-square touches. 

(e) Remove the pieces from the vise, and with knife and try- 
square, draw three lines across the working face of each piece even 
with these knife marks. Place the trjr-square on each of the pieces, 
with its beam against the joint side, its blade on the side opposite 
the working face and with its edge even with the mark that is 2J.^" 
from the end. Now draw a knife Hne along this edge of the try-square 

'A mortise is a rectangular opening in or through a piece, into which a rec- 
tangular projection called a tenon fits to form a joint. 





BEGINNING WOODW 'ORK 

1 ■>" long with its nearer end 1" from tlie joint side. With the try- 
square in a similar position draw knife lines even with each of the 
other two marks IJI" long, with their nearer ends j^'s" from the 
joint side. 

(f) Clamp the four braces in the vise in the same manner as the 
legs were clamped in d, with the two lower braces in the middle. 
Measure' IJ^" and 2}<4" from each end, and before removing the 
pieces from the vise, draw knife lines square across all of the joint 
sides even with the two points that are 2}^" from the ends, and 
across the joint sides of the two upper braces even with the two points 
1 ' ■>" from the ends. 

(g) Remove the braces from the vise and with knife and try- 
square continue each of the lines square around each piece. 

(h) Set the gage equal to the distance (4) from the side of a leg to 
the nearer edge of the mortise through which the tenon on the lower 
brace is to pass. Now taking the lower braces, with gage-block 
against the joint sides, gage lines on the working faces and the surfaces 
opposite, from each of the knife lines to the ends of the pieces; also 
gage across the ends. With the same setting of the gage and with 
the gage-block against the joint side, gage lines on the working face 
and the opposite surface of each leg between the two knife lines that 
are respectively A%" and byo" from the end. 

(i) Change the set of the gage to the distance (28) from the side of 
the leg to the farther edge of the mortise and again follow the directions 



FURNITURE MAKING— KEYED CONSTRUCTION 



for gaging given in h. This completes the laying out of the mortises 
on the legs and the tenons on the lower braces. 

(j) At this point it is desirable to make the keys, and lay out the 
holes into which they are to fit. To make the keys, plane the work- 
ing face and the joint side of the piece from which they are to be made, 
marking these in four different places. Plane off the side opposite 
the joint side until it is smooth, then gage and plane the piece to thick- 
ness (15). Now cut the four keys to their proper length (29). (See 
Chapter VI, u). Next set the gage to the width (22) that each key is 
to be at its upper end, and with the gage-block against the joint side, 
gage a line on one end of each of the four pieces (Fig. 42) . Set the gage 
to the width (15) that each key is to be at its lower end, and in a 
similar manner gage a line on the other end of each of the four pieces. 
Connect the ends of these gage lines by using the straight-edge and 
knife; then plane off the surplus wood outside of these lines, thus 
completing the four keys. 

(k) Lay out the holes for the keys in the following manner: On 
the working face measure toward the end of the piece IJ" from each 
of the knife lines that were drawn around the lower braces in g. 
With the beam of the try-square against the joint side of the piece, 
draw a knife line jo" long even with the points thus located and 
having their nearer ends I" from the joint side. By the method 
used in squaring around a piece, draw on the surface opposite the 
working face a line directly opposite this one. 

Determine the width of a key at a point 1 i',/' from its wider 




BEGINNING WOODWORK 




end, and measure this distance toward the end of the brace from 
the short line just made on the surface opposite the working face. Draw 
a knife Une lo" long at right angles to the joint side through this 
point, having its nearer end 1" from the joint side. Then determine 
the width of a kej^ ni" from its wider end and measure this distance 
toward the end of the brace from the short knife line on the working 
face, and through this point draw a line 32" long at right angles with 
the joint side and having its nearer end 1" from the joint side. Set 
the gage to 1" and with the gage-block against the joint side gage a 
line between each pair of these knife lines on both the working face 
and the surface opposite. Change the set of the gage to \}/2" and with 
gage-block against the joint side, gage another line between each pair 
of knife lines. This completes the laying out of the holes for the keys. 
(1) To cut out the mortises in the legs, first bore with the }{" 
auger-bit two holes within the space that is to be cut out. Start 
the bit in each case so that the edge of the hole will extend nearly to 
the gage line locating the end of the mortise, but in no case should 
the hole extend beyond the gage or knife lines. This boring will 
remove the greater part of the wood to be cut out, and the remainder 
may be removed by placing the piece on the chiseling-board and, 
holding the chisel as in Fig. 63; take thin cuts about half-way through 
from each side, cutting to within about a'-/' of the gage and knife lines 
Now place the chisel in the lines as in Fig. 5(3 and b}^ light strokes on 
the handle, good right-angled corners may be formed as the edges of 
the mortise. The wood now remaining between these right-angled 



FURNITURE MAKING — KEYED CONSTRUCTION 



edges should be carefully cut out, testing with a straight edge as, in 
Fig, 78, to determine when the work is completed. 

(m) Cut out the holes in the lower braces for the keys in a sim- 
ilar manner to that described in 1, using the ?<s" bit and starting the 
bit in the surface opposite the working face. 

(n) To remove the surplus wood from the ends of the lower 
braces so as to form the tenons, place each piece in the vise in a verti- 
cal position and saw with the back-saw a little outside of the gage 
lines, until the saw cuts within about 3^" of the knife line. Next 
clamp the piece in a horizontal position in the vise, and saw with the 
back-saw so that the side of the teeth farthest from the end of the 
piece cut exactly to the knife line, and saw until the block of wood 
outside of the tenon is removed. Now carefully pare off the surplus 
wood which remains outside of the gage lines ; also see that good sharp 
right-angled comers are formed where the two saw cuts meet, 

(o) A 34" chamfer should now be laid out on the edges that are 
to be vertical at the ends of the tenons. Use pencil and trs'-square 
to lay them out, and then cut them with the chisel as in Fig. 63. 

(p) Try to insert each tenon in a mortise so that the joint side 
of the brace and the joint side of the leg come on the same side, with 
the working face of the brace on top and the working face of the leg 
on the inside. Do not try to drive the tenon into the mortise; if it 
cannot be pushed into place without great effort search for the ob- 
struction and remove it. Possibly the brace was not planed to correct 
thickness or the middle of the inner surfaces of the mortise were not chisel- 





BEGIXMXG WOODWORK 

ed out enough to form true surfaces. As each tenon is fitted to a mor- 
tise it is well to make some mark on the under side of the tenon and 
the same mark on the inside of the leg near the mortise so that the 
same tenon and mortise may be put together when the work on the 
taboret is completed. 

(q) For laying out the slot in. the upper end of the leg, set the 
gage to the distance (7) from the side of the leg to the nearer edge 
of the slot, and with the gage-block against the joint side, gage from 
the knife line to the end on the working face and the surface opposite, 
also across the end. Change the set of the gage to the distance 
(30) the farther edge of the joint is from the side of the leg and 
gage as before. The wood between these gage lines down to the knife 
line may be removed by sawing so that the outer edge of the saw 
teeth come exacth^ to the gage lines; then bore a hole near the lower 
end of the slot with the %" auger-bit and chisel out the lower end 
as was done in cutting the mortise. 

(r) Set the gage to 3^", and with the gage-block against the 
working face, gage a line between each pair of knife lines that cross 
the joint side and the side opposite on each of the top braces. Change 
the set of the gage to 5,s" and, with the gage-block against the work- 
ing face, gage another line between each pair of lines referred to above. 
By a method similar to that used in Chapter VI, i to r, remove the 
wood outside of these gage lines and between the knife lines. This 
will reduce the thickness between the knife lines to i^". 

(s) Try fitting each thinned part of the upper braces into an 



FURNITURE MAKIXG — KEYED CONSTRUCTION 



opening in the top of a leg, so that the working face of the brace 
and the joint side of a leg come on the same side. Observe the same 
caution about forcing the joints together, as when fitting the tenons 
in the mortises, and try to discover and remove any obstruction, in- 
stead of trying to force the pieces together. When fitted, make marks 
on each piece so that the same pieces may be fitted together later. 

(t) The two lower braces should now be fitted together, as in 
Fig. 79, with a half lap joint, so that both working faces will be on 
top; and the two upper braces should be fitted together in a similar 
manner as shown in Fig. 80, so that both joint sides will be on top. 
This joining may be done as explained in Chapter VI, d to s, except 
that the two parts of the cross are not in one piece as they were then. 
It will therefore be necessary to use special care that all gaging is 
done either from the working face or joint side, 

(u) Now by short knife and gage lines locate on each of the two 
upper braces on the side opposite the joint side, two points 'S},<1" from 
the end of that side and in the middle of its width. With the ?g" 
auger-bit, bore a hole at each of the points, 134" deep. Then with 
the I'V, auger-bit bore on through the remainder of the wood. 

(v) With a piece of No. 1 sandpaper wrapped around a block, 
as in Fig. 64, sandpaper very thoroughly all surfaces of the legs, 
braces and keys. In doing this rub lengthwise of the grain where 
possible. Then put the entire frame together as in Fig. 81. 

(w) To prepare a clamp for use in gluing up the top, first plane 
a working face on each of the two pieces of "two by four". Next 




BEGINNING WOODWORK 




[)lane, by the rules for planing, four blocks 6"x2i4"xl}4"- Also 
make two wedges of the same form as the keys made in j each 6" long, 
Ho" wide at one end, 1" wide at the other end and 1^" thick. Now 
locate and bore three ]^" holes in each of the four blocks made above, 
two of them being ;^,;s" from the joint side and lj?4" from the ends, 
and the third I3/2" from the joint side and in the middle of the length. 
One of these blocks should now be fastened to each of the long pieces 
near one end, using three 2J-|" No. 14 round-headed screws and wash- 
ers. To find the correct location for the blocks on the working face 
of the long pieces use one of the wedges and the try-square as in 
Fig. 82, and by striking the screws with a hammer, points will be 
located where the screws should enter. Use the ^^" twist-bit, and 
bore a hole at each of these points, IJ^" deep. The blocks may now 
be screwed fast. The other two blocks being fastened in place as 
shown in Fig. 86, the clamps are now ready for use. 

(x) The top of the taboret is to be made of two pieces and should 
be glued together as follows: Plane the working face of each of the 
two pieces for the top. In selecting the surface to be planed for 
the working face of each piece it is desirable to use the surface that 
was nearer the center of the tree from which it was cut, for one of 
the pieces, and for the other the surface that was nearer the bark; 
this may be determined by observing the rings of growth on the ends 
of the pieces. B}'- arranging the pieces in this manner the tendencies 
in the two pieces to warp counteract each other. Next, plane an 
accurate joint side on each piece. If the piece is clamped in the vise 



FURNITURE MAKING — KEYED CONSTRUCTION 



in the usual way it is too high and unsteady for convenience in plan- 
ing, and it is therefore advisable to fasten a hand screw to one end of 
the piece and clamp the piece in the vise as in Fig. 83. Beginners 
usually find considerable difficulty in managing a handscrew, but if 
it is remembered that the two jaws should never be far from parallel, 
little difficulty need be experienced. In adjusting the handscrew to 
any work, it should be brought to a position such as is shown, some- 
what exaggerated, in Fig. 84; then by tightening the end screw, the 
jaws may be brought to a parallel position. Some experience will 
be necessary to determine how tight the middle screw should be in 
order that the jaws may be parallel when the end screw is tightened. 
When the two joint sides are completed, clamp one piece in the vise 
with the working face to the front and the joint side up, and on this 
place the other piece with its working face to the front and its 
joint side in contact with the joint side of the other piece. This will 
show whether the working faces and joint sides of the two pieces 
have been accurately planed or not; for if these are not correct 
there will be openings between the joint sides, or the working faces 
will be shown to be out of line when tested with a straight-edge 
(Fig. 85). If the joint is not a good fit apply the tests again to the 
working faces and joint sides, and make corrections where needed. 
It is not an easy matter to make a good glue joint but perseverance 
will accomplish it. When the joint is fitted, place the pieces for the 
top of the taboret on the clamps with their working faces down, and 
with the wedges in the position shown in Fig. 86, fasten the loose 





BEGINNING WOODWORK 

blocks in position by the method explained in w. Next drive the 
wedges in between the blocks and pieces to make sure that the joint 
is ready for gluing; then remove the wedges, cover both of the joint 
sides with a thin coat of liquid glue and again clamp the pieces togeth- 
er, using care that the working faces and ends of the two pieces are in 
line. It is best to leave the pieces in the clamps ten or twelve hours. 
(y) After removing the clamps the piece should be planed by 
the rules for planing to the following dimensions 15"xl5"x%". 
Next draw a light pencil line diagonally across the square on the 
working face and measure from each corner along each side and end, 
a distance equal to one-half the length of this diagonal, and with 
the beam of the trj^-square against the working face, draw pencil 
lines square across the sides and ends at each of these points. With 
the straight-edge and knife draw lines on the working face diagonally 
across each corner connecting the ends of the two pencil lines which 
are adjacent to the corner. These lines, with parts of the sides of 
the square, form a regular octagon. Now clamp the piece in the 
vise and saw off the corners nearly to the knife lines; then block- 
plane to the lines. Next lay the octagonal piece on the bench with 
the working face up and place the frame (Fig. 81) wrong side up on 
it so that the center line of the joint side of one of the braces is in 
contact with the diagonal previously drawn and with the two ends of 
this same brace at equal distances from the sides of the octagonal 
piece. Place the four \]'l" No. 10 round-head screws in the holes 
in the braces; then using the nail set, wrong end up, to reach them. 



FURNITURE MAKING — KEYED CONSTRUCTION 



strike each lightly to locate the points for the holes in the top. Now 
with the z-i" twist-bit bore holes 3 '2" deep at each of the four points 
located. The frame may now be screwed to the top and the taboret 
is ready for the finish. 

(z) To finish the taboret, secure a barrel and if there are cracks 
in it paste paper over the outside of them to make it as near air-tight 
as possible. Pour about two ounces of strong ammonia in a 
dish and set the taboret over it; then invert the barrel over the 
taboret, closing all openings around the edge of the barrel. If the 
ammonia is as strong as it should be, it will be necessary to have 
everything ready for quick work before pouring it into the dish and 
then^care should be taken that the fumes do not choke you. Let 
the taboret remain in the fumes at least fifteen hours and then 
remove the barrel and allow some time for the fumes to escape. Now 
shake the bottle containing the boiled oil and hard-oil finish and 
vvith a cloth thoroughly rub it on and mto all parts of the taboret. 





BEGINNING WOOD WORK 



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CHAPTER IX. 

FuRxiTURE Making — Closed Mortise-and-Tenox Construction. 

In this chapter the application of the fundamental principles 
to furniture making is continued, and a good working knowledge of 
construction involving the closed mortise-and-tenon joint should be 
gained. This method of construction is in general use, and with 
good workmanship is unexcelled for strength. 

Cane-Top Stool (Fig. 87). The material required consists of four 
pieces of oak 14"xl^4"xl-?4'" for the legs, two pieces 16"x4i^"xl3>|" 
and two pieces lo"x4}-|"xl}4" for the rails, two pieces 12i/2"xl3^"xJ^" 
and two pieces 10"xli/2"xJs" for the supports for the seat, two 
pieces 14"xl^|"xl" and two pieces 10i--2"xl34"xl" for the seat frame, 
a piece of hard maple 8H"xlK"xi4" for the templet, ten ly^" No. U) 
flat-head bright screws for fastening the supports for the seat, 55 yards 
of pith cane, a small bottle of liquid glue, a 2-oz. bottle of fumine, 
a 2-oz. bottle of strong ammonia, and about 1 oz. of four parts boiled oil 
and one part hard-oil finish. 

The tools to be used for the first time are the cabinet scraper and 
the needle for weaving the seat. 

(a) Plane the four pieces for the legs by the rules for ,)laning 
to dimensions. (;U, 30, 30.) 

(b) Clamp these four pieces in the vise, as in Fig. 77, and measure 
the distance (7) from the top of the leg to the upper end of the motise, 
and from the point just located, measure the length (32) of the mortise. 

79 




BEGINNI.XG WOODWORK 




With the beam of the try-square against the working face of the front 
leg, make light marks on each edge that is formed by a working face 
and joint side. 

(c) Remove the pieces from the vise, and place the try-square 
on one of the legs with the beam against the working face and the 
blade on the joint side, its edge being even with one of the last marks 
made. Now make a knife line as long as the width (15) of the mortise, 
its nearer end being as far (1) from the working face as the nearer edge 
of the mortise is to be from the inner edge of the leg. Using the same 
point on the edge of the leg, draw a knife line of the same length, 
and in a similar manner, on the working face, its nearer end being the 
same distance from the joint side as the end of the line just drawn 
was from the working face. In the same manner as above, make two 
similar knife lines even with each of the seven remaining points that 
were located on the edges of the legs. 

(d) Set the gage to the distance (1) that the inner edge of the 
mortise is to be from the inside of the legs, and with the gage-block 
against either the working face or joint side, gage lines between each 
pair of knife lines that indicate where the ends of the mortises are 
to be. Change the set of the gage to the distance (33) the outer 
edge of the mortise is to be from the inside of the leg, and in a similar 
manner, make another gage line between each pair of knife lines. 
This completes the laying out of the mortises. 

(e) Using the '%" auger-bit bore eight or nine holes within each 
of the spaces just laid out, to the depth (7) the mortise is to be cut. 



FURNITURE MAKING —CLOSED MORTISE-AND-TENON CONSTRUCTIOX 



This may be done by the method shown in Fig. 65, but may be accom- 
plished more rapidly by cutting a block the length of the exposed 
part of the bit when the hole is to the required depth, and 
placing it beside the bit when boring. When the chuck strikes the top 
of the block, as in Fig. 88, the hole is to depth. The wood remaining 
in the mortises is to be removed by a method similar to that explained 
in Chapter VIII, 1. By working at the same time on both mortises 
that are in one' leg, the chisel may be entered in one while trimming 
the bottom of the other to its correct depth. 

To test the mortise while chiseling it out, make from the thin 
piece of hard maple, an accurate templet of the size and form shown 
in Fig. 87, and use it as in Fig. 89. It should not be forced into the 
mortise, but if used carefully and thoughtfully, the part to be chiseled 
out may readily be determined. To ascertain whether the end of the 
mortise is being cut square with the surface, use the try-square and 
any straight-edge, as the joint side of the templet. Fig. 90. 

(f ) To form the point on the top of each leg, proceed as follows : 
With knife and try-square, draw a light line around each leg Vg" 
from its upper end; then with the pencil and gage used as in Fig. 37, 
on the upper end of the leg draw a line through the center parallel 
to the working face, and a similar line parallel to the joint side. 
Clamp each leg in the vise in a vertical position and block-plane a 
chamfer extending from the line on the side opposite the joint side 
to the line on the end parallel with the joint side. Test to see that the 
surface of this chamfer is square with the working face. In a similar 





BEGINNING WOODWORK 

manner plane a chamfer from the line on the surface opposite the 
working face to what remains of the Hne parallel to the working face. 
Next plane a chamfer from the line on the joint side to what remains of 
the line parallel to the joint side. Finally plane a chamfer from the 
line on the working face up to the point which is now formed in the 
center of the end. 

(g) To form the lower part of the legs, first lay out a regular 
octagon on the lower end as in Chapter VIII, y ; then locate a point on 
each edge of the leg l}// from its lower end, and from each of these 
points, with pencil and straight-edge, draw lines to the angles of the 
octagon that was laid out on the bottom of the leg. With the jack- 
plane, take off the wood outside of these lines. In doing this planing, 
it is desirable to clamp the legs in the vise as in Fig. 71, and it is 
necessary to protect the edges from injury while they are clamped 
in this position. To do this, place pieces of soft pine between the 
edges and the jaws of the vise. 

(h) Plane the two longer rails to length (.'54). width (35) 
and thickness (10) and the two shorter rails to length (36), width 
(35) and thickness (10). 

(i) Clamp the two longer rails in the vise as in Fig. 77, and 
measure from each end the length (7) of the tenons. At the points 
thus determined, draw knife lines square across the joint sides. Remove 
the pieces from the vise, and continue the knife lines square around 
the pieces. In a similar manner draw knife lines square around the 
two shorter rails as far from each end as the length (7) of the tenons. 



Fi'RA'ITURE MAKING — CLOSED MORTISE-AND-TEXOX COXSTRUCTliW 



(j) Set the gage to the distance (15) that the inner surface of the 
tenon is to be from the inner surface of the rail, and with the gage- 
block against the working face of each of the four rails, gage lines 
for the inner surfaces of the tenons. Change the set of the gage to 
the distance (7) the outer surface of the tenon is to be from the 
inner surface of the rail, and gage for the outer surface of the tenons. 
Now set the gage to the width (32) of the tenon, and with the gage- 
block against the joint side, gage lines for the width of the tenon on 
the working faces and surfaces opposite, also across the ends. This 
completes the laying out of the eight tenons. 

(k) To remove the surplus wood outside of the tenons, clamp 
each rail in the vise in a vertical position and saw with the back-saw 
so that the inner edges of the saw teeth cut exactly to each gage line. 
Next holding the piece on the bench-hook, saw to the knife lines. 
Make all of the three saw cuts to the gage lines of each tenon before 
sawing to the knife lines. If the sawing has been well done 
no chiseling will be necessary, except a little to clean out the 
angles where the saw cuts meet. Fit each tenon in a mortise without 
too great force and mark it. Clamp each end and each side together, 
as in Fig. 91, changing the position of the back blocks to suit each 
case and testing with the try-square to ascertain if the legs are square 
with the rails ; also see that the shoulders on the rails fit tight against 
the legs. 

(1) Remove the tenons from the mortises and lay out and cut 
a chamfer on each tenon, the lines for its edges being -'s" both ways 





BEGIXXIXG WOODlVCiRK 

from the inner edge of the tenon. Plane the two pieces for supporting 
the seat to 12"xl'4"x''4" and screw them with three l}4" No. 10 
screws to the inside of the two longer rails, as shown. at E, Fig. 92, 
with the upper side of the support { ;V' below the top of the rail. In 
a similar manner plane the other two pieces to 9^"xl34"x%" and 
screw them with two screws to the inside of the shorter rails. 

(m) Apply a thin coat of liquid glue to the tenons and the shoul- 
ders around the tenons on one of the end rails, also on the surfaces with- 
in the mortises that will be in contact with the surfaces of these tenons. 
Then put one end of the stool together and clamp it as in Fig. 91. 
Glue up the other end of the stool in a similar manner. They should 
be left in the clamps ten or twelve hours, but it is well after they have 
been in the clamps about three hours to clean off any glue that has 
squeezed out around the joint or into the other mortises in the legs. 

(n) Make sure that the stool will clamp together, as in Fig. 92, all 
joints closing up well. Then apply a thin coat of liquid glue to all of 
the remaining tenons and mortises, and clamp the stool together as 
in Fig. 92. Test to see that the two pairs of diagonally opposite legs 
are the same distance apart, and if they are not, try to force the two 
legs that are farthest apart nearer together. They may be held in 
this position by a stay placed diagonally across the stool and nailed 
to the sides of the main pieces of the clamps. 

(o) After ten or twelve hours the clamps may be removed. 
All of the surfaces should then be scraped with a cabinet scraper. 
This is a rectangular piece of steel about I'u" thick. Holding the 



FURNITURE MAKING — CLOSED MORTISE-AND-rENON CONSTRUCTION 



scraper as in Fig. Vj;j, draw it toward you, applying a downward pressure 
as it is drawn forward. It will be possible by this method to remove 
the slight irregularities in the surface that are nearly always found in 
oak after planing and which if left in the surface are especially noticable 
after the finish is applied. After scraping all surfaces they should 
be rubbed thoroughl)^ with No. 1 sandpaper, using a block as in Fig. 64. 

(p) Plane two pieces of oak for the seat frame to l.'v''s"xl ' 2"x"s" 
and the other two to 9K'"xli^"x's". 

(q) Clamp the two longer pieces in the vise as in Fig. 77, and 
draw two knife lines across the joint sides for the ends of each mor- 
tise, one }4" and the other 13>-^" from the ends of the pieces. Next 
clamp the two shorter pieces in the vise as in Fig. 77 and draw knife 
lines across the joint side 1" from each end. Remove these pieces from 
the vise and cor|,tinue these lines square around each piece. Set the 
gage to I4" and with the gage-block against the working face, gage 
between the lines for the ends of the mortises on the longer pieces ; 
and from the line around each end of the shorter pieces, gage lines to 
and across the ends of the pieces. Now change the set of the gage 
to %" and gage again as above with gage-block against the working 
face. Next set the gage to 1", and with the gage-block against the 
joint side of the shorter pieces, gage from the knife lines to and across 
the ends. 

(r) The mortises may now be cut as in e except that there will 
be more difficulty in cleaning out the bottom of the mortises. It is 
advisable to clean them out before cutting to the knife lines at the 




BEGINNING WOODWORK 




ends of the mortise. The wood may be cut away from the outside 
of the tenons as explained in k The tenons may then be fitted in 
the mortises and marked, remembering that the working faces of all 
the pieces are to be on the same side of the frame. Clamp the en- 
tire frame together with the clamps used for the stool. Then test 
the frame with the winding-sticks, and if there is a wind in it, a little 
thoughtful work on some of the tightest joints may take the wind 
out. Now apply glue to the tenons and in the mortises, and clamp 
the frame together. 

(s) When the glue is dry and the frame out of the clamps, any 
wind remaining in it should be planed out. Then set the gage to the 
same distance as the thickness of the frame in its thinest part, and 
gage around the frame with the gage-block against the true surface; 
then plane the frame down to the gage line. The siool should now 
be placed up-side down on the seat frame, and when as centrally 
placed as possible, make marks with a knife on the frame even with 
the inside surfaces of all four legs. It is also well to make a mark on 
the frame and on the inside of a rail, so that the frame may be 
placed in this same position later. Right-angled notches should be 
laid out even with these marks and sawed out. All four sides should 
now be planed off so as to leave a iV" space for the cane between 
the outside of the frame and the inside of the rails. Next bore two 
Vf," holes ?4" deep and i I" between centers in the under surface of 
the frame near the middle of the length of each end piece and one 
near the middle of the length of each side piece, all six of the holes 



FURNITURE MAKING ^ CLOSED MORTISE-AND-TENON CONSTRUCTION 



being i"c" from the outer edge of the frame. Now lay out and plane 
a }^" chamfer on the upper and lower edges entirely around the 
outside of the frame, and with a chisel make a similar chamfer on 
the upper and lower edges on the inside of the frame. By a method 
similar to that used in planing the roller of the towel roller, change 
these chamfered edges on both the inside and the outside of the 
frame into rounded edges. The frame should now be scraped and 
sandpapered. 

(t) Now make four round pegs about 1 1 2" long, using the dowel 
plate as in Chapter II, o. Clamp each one in a vertical position 
in the vise, and with the back-saw, make a cut at least •J^'" deep 
down through the center of the peg. Then measure and saw off a 
length of ■■'4" from the end just sawed. This makes two parts of 
each peg, and when the end of one part is rounded, they are used, 
as in Fig. 94, to fasten the ends of the cane. 

(u) Before starting to put on the cane the fumine should be put 
in a dish and five times as much water as fumine added. It should 
then be applied with the brush to all parts of the stool and the seat 
frame. What remains should be kept to apply to the weaving. 
The fumine will be dry enough in ten or fifteen minutes to begin 
putting on the cane. 

(v) The cane should be soaked in water at least two hours before 
using, and it is well to plan the spacing of the cane and mark on the 
frame where each strand is to be, in order that the outer cane may come 
close against the legs and that there may be a space of aboiit n/'be- 




F10.94 



l_. 



BEGINNIXG WOOD WORK 




tween adjacent strands. Apply a little glue to one of the pegs and drive 
it in one of the holes in a side of the frame (Fig. 94) with an end of a 
cane between the parts of the peg in such a position that the smoother 
side of the cane will be on the outside of the seat. The cane should 
now be passed around the frame lengthwise (Fig. 95), drawing it 
snug but not too tight, and tying together the ends of successive 
pieces of the cane so that the knots will be on the under side of the 
frame. When the other side of the frame is reached, the end of the 
cane should be fastened as when starting. 

(w) A piece of cane to run crosswise may now be fastened in one 
of the holes in the end of the frame, sliding two of the lengthwise 
strands apart to get at one of the holes. With a knife reduce the 
width of the cane near the other end, (see Fig. 96) and by fold- 
ing the wide part at the end, thread it in the weaving needle. Now 
pass the needle under every fourth strand on the bottom of the seat, 
and on the top weave over one and under two; each succeeding time 
around, begin to weave one strand before the corresponding one the 
last time (Fig. 96). The final end should be fastened as the others, 
with a peg in one of the holes. 

(x) The fumine as mixed in u should now be applied to the 
weaving, using care that all parts of the cane exposed are covered. 
The stool should now be fumed with ammonia and rubbed with the 
mixture of boiled oil and hard oil finish, as explained in Chapter 
VIII, z. 



FURNITURE MAKING — CLOSED MORTISE-AND-TENON CONSTRUCTION 





CHAPTER X. 
Application of Principles. 

The work outlined in the preceeding chapter has given experience 
in only a few of the problems a woodworker will have to meet, but 
the work has been presented systematically and it is believed that 
most workers, after completing this work, will be able to master 
ordinary problems in woodworking. The purpose of this chapter 
is to call attention to some of the principles explained in the preceeding 
chapters, and give some general suggestions for their application to 
other problems. 

Laying Out. The pencil should be used for laying out work only 
when there is a good reason why it is better than the knife and gage, 

The pencil should be used in laying out work on rough surfaces, 
as when framing buildings and in getting out stock from rough material, 
because knife lines can not readily be seen on such surfaces. 

The use of the pencil should not, however, in these or other cases 
be an excuse for inaccurate work, for it should be the aim at all times 
to be as accurate as possible. It is also best to use the pencil when 
laying out lines for obtuse-angled edges, as was done when making 
the chamfer on the bread-cutting board and in making the slanting 
surfaces on the end pieces of the towel roller. Still another use for 
which the pencil is especially suited is in laying out curves. 

In general, except as noted above, the gage and knife should 
be used. This is especially necessary where any accurately fitted 



APPLICATION OF PRIXCIPLES 



joints are to be made, and in such cases it is necessary that the beam 
of the try-square and the gage-block be used only against the working 
face or joint side. A bevel-edge rule has been advised because it is 
easier for a beginner to use, but when using a thick-edge rule, such 
as is in more common use, it should be held on its edge as shown 
in Fig. 97. 

Planing. In planing lengthwise of the grain the most important 
planes used are the smooth-plane, jack-plane and the jointer-plane. 
These are mentioned in the order of their length. 

If a thick shaving is desired, as when roughing out work, the 
jack-plane should be used; it has an iron with the edge sharpened as 
shown in Fig. 98. This plane is of convenient length, and when the 
blade is sharpened in this manner, a thick shaving may be taken off 
much easier than when the iron is ground as in Fig. 99. This does 
not leave a good smooth surface, and therefore its use should be 
followed by one of the other planes. 

If smoothness of surface instead of trueness is desired it may 
be produced more quickly by using the smooth plane which is a short 
plane and has a plane-iron sharpened as shown in Fig. 99. On ac- 
count of the shortness of this plane it reaches the depressions in the 
surface, thus smoothing the entire surface quickly. 

For planing large surfaces so that they are both true and smooth 
a jointer-plane is desirable. This is a long plane having its iron 
sharpened as in Fig. 99. Its length prevents the blade from cutting 
any from the parts which are too low, but does allow the blade to 




Fip.9a 



fi q99 



^ 



BEGIXXING WOODWORK 




ciit from the parts that are too high, thus tending to make a true 
surface. If two long pieces are to be glued together in the same man- 
ner as the top of the taboret, the use of the jointer-plane is very 
desirable in fitting the joint. 

For the nonprofessional woodworker who is not doing a large 
amount of work and is not working on very large pieces, the work 
requiring these three planes may be very well accomplished by 
providing two plane-irons for the jack-plane, one sharpened as in 
Fig. ys and the other as in Fig. 99. Many other planes for special 
purposes are used occasionally, but they will present little difficulty 
to the thoughtful worker who has followed the course as given. 

The rules for planing as outlined in Chapter IV are followed when a 
piece is to be brought to a given length, width and thickness. The order 
of the steps there outlined should never be changed, but in certain 
cases some of the steps may be omitted. Thus in making the coat 
hanger it was not desirable to plane the piece to width. Occasionally 
a problem appears in which the planing to thickness is not desirable, 
and in such problems as modeling a hammer handle or conoe paddle 
the planing to both width and thickness may be omitted. The 
winding-sticks are not usually a part of the professional woodworker's 
outfit; he determines whether there is a wind in the working face 
either by sighting across the surface itself or by placing the surface 
in contact with some surface he knows to have no wind in it. 

Chiseling. The systematic method of chiseling followed in this 
book may seem unnecessary to beginners, but if followed, its advantage 



APPLICATION OF PRINCIPLES 

over chiseling at random will soon be appreciated. There are two 
kinds of chisels in common use: The firmer chisel, being rather light 
in construction, is intended for hand work only; the framing chisel is 
stronger in construction and may be used with the mallet for heavy 
framing work. 

Furniture Construction. A considerable amount of skill is required 
to make a good single joint such as was used in making the flower 
pot stool, but as the number of joints in a piece increase, the difficulty 
of making usually increases; that is, the fit of one joint in a piece 
of furniture usually requires some other joint or joints to be in 
a definite position with reference to it. For this reason great care 
is necessary in planning and laying out pieces of furniture. When 
possible, have the working faces and joint sides in such position 
that their surfaces shall serve as parts of the joints, as they are more 
likely to be true than the surfaces opposite. 

Another fact that should be taken into consideration in furniture 
construction is that wood swells and shrinks, due to the changes of 
moisture in the air. Changes due to this cause are very slight length- 
wise the grain, but they are sufficient to require consideration when 
crosswise the grain. There is a strong force causing this change 
and in constructing furniture it is best whenever possible to arrange 
so that this force can act without effecting the completed piece. 
The method usually employed to provide for this is known as panelling, 
and it should usually be employed where the parts are more than 
six or eight inches wide. It consists in making a frame similar to 




HEGIXMXG 1 1 'OOD H \)R K 




that used for the seat of the cane top stool, with groove around on 
the inside of the four pieces of the frame, into which a thinner piece 
called the panel is inserted before the frame is glued up. The panel 
should lack at least an eighth of an inch of being wide enough to fill 
the space allowed for it and when gluing up the mortise and tenon 
joints of the frame care should be used that no part of the panel 
is glued fast in the groove. After gluing it up this may be treated 
as a single piece and will not change in size but the panel may swell 
or shrink witliin the frame. 




APPENDIX. 

Dimensions. The dimensions given in tlie list below 
are those which should be used in place of the correspond- 
ing reference numbers in the text. All dimensions 
might have been omitted both from the text and the 
appendix; in that case the worker would have been 
obliged to study the working drawings to determine the 
dimensions. This method was not followed for fear some 
beginners might become discouraged before acquiring 
ability to read the working drawings. If all the dimen- 
sions had been given in the text, the worker would not 
have been encouraged to study the working drawings 
at all. This would have been equally undesirable. It is 
expected that a worker will refer to this list only when 
unable to determine the dimension from the working 
drawing or when he wishes to see if he has detennined 
the correct dimension. 



1- IJ" 


13— 23/8" 


25—14" 


2—101-2" 


14— %" 


26— 4-M' 


3— 2y," 


15— y^" 


27— 514' 


4- s/s" 


16— IJ^" 


28- IK' 


5— \V%" 


17— IBM" 


2i) — 234' 


6— 5" 


IS— 3M" 


30— iVa' 


7— 1" 


19— 13i" 


31— 13" 


8— 2J4" 


20— K" 


32- 3M' 


9- 1%" 


-1- x\:' 


33- 1,3^ 


10— IJ^" 


22— M" 


34— 1514 ' 


11— 114" 


23— 173i" 


35— 4" 


12— 6" 


24— 17M" 


36—121/2' 



Planes. Planes are the most complicated of the 
ordinary woodworking tools and a more detailed ex- 
planation than was considered desirable in the text 
will now be given. 

Jack-plane. To take this plane apart, raise the lever 
Q, Fig. 24, then slide up the cap L until the enlarged 
opening in it will allow- it to be slipped over the head 
of the screw passing through it. The double plane- 
iron may now be removed. Great care should be used 
in removing and replacing this double plane-iron, that 
the sharpened edge be not injured by coming in con- 
tact with the other metal parts of the plane. The plane- 
iron is a steel blade about one-sixteenth of an inch thick; 
its general shape is rectangular, and along a portion 
of its length extends a slot with an enlarged circular 
opening at one of its ends; its sharpened edge is formed 
by a bevel across one end. To the surface of the plane- 
iron that is not beveled the plane-iron cap is attached by 
means of a screw passing through the slot in the plane-iron. 
This plane-iron cap serves to stiffen the plane-iron and 
also to break the shaving, so that in wood with irregular 
grain the shaving will not act as a lever and break ahead 
of the cutting edge, thus leaving a rough surface. In 
adiusting this cap to the plane-iron, its thin end should 
be tight against the plane-iron and usually about j',." 
from its sharpened end. For cutting thick shavings, 
when using the plane-iron ground as in Fig. 98, this 
distance may be as much as -^^^ ". When smooth work is 
desired in finishing a piece with irregular grain, the plane- 
iron, ground as in Fig. 99, should be used with the cap 



BEGINNING WOODWORK 



set less than 7,1.," from the sharpened edge, and should cut 
a thin shaving. When placing the doubl' plane-iron in 
position, the circular disc on the end of the lateral ad- 
justment lever should enter the slot in the plane-iron; 
the end of the lever operated by the adjusting nut should 
enter the small rectangular hole in the plane-iron cap; 
and the plane-iron itself should be in contact with the frog. 
To hold the plane-iron in this position, the cap L, Fig. 124, 
is slipped into position and the lever O pushed down as 
shown in Fig. 24. 

Block-plane. Several of the parts of the block-plane 
shown in Fig. 26 serve the same purpose as those in the 
jack-plane, but there is no plane-iron cap; the adjusting 
nut is placed in a different position, and the cap S is fas- 
tened by a lever moving sidewise, instead of in a vertical 
direction. The plane iron is placed with the bevel on 
top instead of underneath, as in the jack-plane, and on 
its under side has a series of grooves extending crosswise. 
It is necessary that the proper one of these engage in the 
teeth of the adjusting lever or the turning of the adjusting 
nut will not bring the sharpened edge of the plane-iron 
into the correct position for planing. 

Some block-planes have a device as shown at W, 
Fig. 26, for the adjustment of the width of the mouth. 
By loosening the thumb screw slightly, the cam lever is 
released so that it may be moved to the right or left, 
thus varying the width of the mouth. A wide mouth is 
better when taking a heavy cut, especially in soft wood, 
and a narrow mouth is better when taking a light cut, 
especially when working with hard wood. 



Sharpening. When the planes or chisels require con- 
siderable force to operate them or if the surface produced 
when using them is not smooth, it indicates that the tool 
needs sharpening. Unless the bevel on the tool is con- 
siderably rounded or the edge badly nicked it will be 
sufficient to sharpen it on the oilstone. This is done as 
follows: place a drop or two of sperm oil on the oilstone 
and hold the chisel or plane-iron as in Fig. 100, with the 
upper end so low at first that the sharpened edge is not 
in contact with the stone. Now raise the upper end until 
the bevel barely comes in contact with the stone. This 
position may be easily determined by noticing that the 
oil is squeezed out from under the bevel as it is raised to 
this position. It should now be moved with a circular 
motion on the surface of the stone, the upper end of the 
tool at all times being kept the same distance above the 
top of the oilstone. It is best not to continue this sharpen- 
ing very long at one place on the oilstone. To determine 
when this part of the sharpening is completed draw the 
finger along on the surface of the iron that is not beveled 
from near the end of the slot to the sharjjened edge. If 
a fine turned-up edge of steel is felt as the finger reaches 
the sharpened edge this part of the sharpening process 
has been continued long enough. The surface of the 
iron that is not beveled should now be laid flat on the 
stone and the iron moved with a circular motion until 
the turned-up, or wire edge, as it is called, seems to be 
ground off. There still remains a fine wire edge which 
is very difficult to see. For removing this, a piece of 
leather fastened to a flat surface should be provideil. 



APPENDIX 



97 



and the iron held upon it as in Fig. 100, and drawn toward 
you several times. It should then be turned over and 
treated in a similar manner. This strapping should be 
repeated several times until the fine wire edge has dis- 
appeared. With careful work the iron may be made 
sharp enough to cut a hair. 

If, when the bevel on a tool is tested with a straight- 
edge, as the chamfer in Fig. 39. it is found to be considerably 
rounded or if the sharpened edge has become badly nicked, 
the tool should be ground on the grindstone. To do this, 
hold the tool, as in Fig. 101, against the front side of the 
grindstone, with the stone revolving toward you. In 
order to bring the tool to a correct position for this grind- 
ing, it is advisable to hold the unsharpened end of the 
tool low, when first placing it on the stone; then gradually 
raise it untill the sharpened edge of the tool is nearly but 
not quite in contact with the surface of the stone. If you 
stand close to the stone and lean the body over above 
the tool you can see this opening between the edge of 
the tool and the stone, appearing as a fine dark line; and 
watching this, you may keep the tool in this same posi- 
tion by keeping this dark line the same. It is essential 
that the tool be kept at the same angle with the surface 
of the stone during the entire sharpening process, and if 
removed from the stone it is necessary that it be returned 
to the same position. A slight swaying motion of the 
tool from right to left is also desirable. Beginners should 
concentrate their attention on keeping the tool in the 
correct position, and should not apply too much pressure 
to it. When grinding chisels or planes, except as in 



Fig. 98, it is es.sential that the edges be straight, and to 
insure this a straight piece of wood should occasionally be 
used to test the edge while grinding it. When this grind- 
ing is completed, if the test shown in Fig. 39 is applied, 
the bevel will be found to be straight, and by drawing 
the finger toward the edge on the surface that is not 
beveled, it will be fovjnd that a wire edge has been formed ; 
this may be removed on the oilstone as explained above, 
and then the entire directions for sharpening on the oil- 
stone should be followed. When shai-pening a plane-iron 
as in Fig. 99, about yV'o" each end of the sharpened 
edge should be rounded back slightly before apph'ing it 
to the oilstone. 
List of Tools 

Good (H or No. 3) lead pencil (Fig. 30). 

Marking Gage (Fig. 8). 

Sloyd knife (Fig. 11). 

Try-square (Fig. 10). 

Bevel-edge rule (Fig. 14). 

Bench hook (Fig. 15). 

Back-saw (Fig. 16). 

Brace (Fig. 18). 
■ Auger bits, ,-\", }4", Vg". H". } ,\" 'Fig- 1^')- 
^ Dowel plate (Fig. 20). 

Mallet (Fig. 20). 

'Two parallel marks placed above and to the right of a number 
indicate inches (as 7"), and a single mark similarly placed indicates 
feet (as 6'). 

^The dowel plate may be made by grinding smooth one side of a 
piece of cast iron or steel about %" thick and drilling two holes through 
it. one of them IW in diameter, and the other *"Azs"- 



98 



BEGINNING WOODWORK 



Jack-plane (Fig. 24). An iron one is preferred, and 
the plane iron should be ground as shown in Fig. iU). 

Block-plane (Fig. 2B). 

Winding-sticks (Fig. 33). 

Turning saw (Fig. 44). 

Spoke-shave (Fig. 47). 

Twist-bit 3V (Fig. 48). 

Firmer chisels, j-'u", 1" (Fig. 56). 

Hammer (Fig. 67). 

Nailset (Fig. 59). 

Countersink (Fig. 61). 

Compasses (Fij,. 62). 

Screwdriver (Fig. 68). 
' Rip-saw. 
' Crosscut saw (Fig. 73). 

Bevel (Fig. 75). 

Handscrew, 8" jaws (Fig. 84). 

Cabinet scraper (Fig. 93). 

Needle for weaving seat of stool (Fig. 96). 

Oilstone (Fig. 100). 

Brush tnr cleaning bench. 
List of Material 

Two pieces of tulip wood ^8" long, planed by machine 
to a width of 4" and thickness of %" (one of them for 
the game board, the other to be used as a practice piece). 
* This saw is very desirable to have in an outfit of tools, but is 
not necessary for the work given if the material is cut to size when 
purchased. 

^ The wood of the tulip tree is seldom called by its own name, but 
is called white wood in some parts of the country and in other parts 
it is called poplar. 



Two pieces ot tulip wood about 18" long and j",," 
square (for pegs for the game board). 

One piece of rough white pine 15"x5"x about J^" (For 
the swing board). 

One piece of butternut 13"x5J^"x%" (For the bread 
cutting board). 

One piece of redwood 16"x2iJ4"x} ;!" (For the coat 
hanger) . 

One piece of white pine 13"xl3^"xJ^" (For the cross 
pieces of the fiower-pot stool). 

One piece of white pine 9"xlJ^"x^" (For the feet of 
the flower-pot stool). 

One piece of cypress 19J4"x35^"x5^" (For the back 
of the towel roller). 

One piece of cypress 7"x2"xl" (For the ends of the 
towel roller). 

One piece of cypress 18J4"xli/4"xl}^" (For the roller 
of the towel roller). 

Four pieces of chestnut 18"x2J^"xJ^" (For the legs 
of the taboret).' 

Two pieces of chestnut l4}/i"x2%"x%" (For the lower 
braces of the taboret).' 

Two pieces of chestnut 14i^"x2l^'xJ^" (For the up- 
per braces of the taboret).' 

One piece of chestnut 12''xl''x^" (For the keys of 
the taboret).' 

Two pieces of chestnut 16"x8"xJ^" (For the top of 
the taboret).' 

J A piece of chestnut 4' 2" x 13'4" x Vk" may be purchased in place of 
these pieces and cut up as indicated in Chapter VIII. 



APPENDIX 



Two pieces of Norway pine 2'x:i%"x\'j4" (For the 
main pieces of the clamps). 

Two pieces of tulip wood \:i"x2y2"xlH" (For the four 
blocks of the clamps). 

One piece of tulip wood i:3"xl?i"xli4" (For the two 
wedges of the clamps). 

Four pieces of oak l-l"s\%"-s.lU" (For the legs of the 
stool). 

One piece of hard maple SJ4"xl^"xi^" (For the 
templet used in testing the mortises). 

Two pieces of oak \ti"x-i^i"\\}i" (For the longer rails 
of the stool). 

Two pieces of oak 13"x4)4"xl h'" (For the shorter 
rails of the stool). 

Two pieces of oak V2l4"Kl}4"x]/g" (For the supports 
for the seat). 

Two pieces of oak 10"xli4"xJ^" (For the supports for 
the seat). 

Two pieces of oak U"xl34"xl" (For the frame for the 
cane seat of the stool). 

Two pieces of oak 10i4"xl3|"xl" (For the frame for 
the cane seat of the stool). 

One piece of tulip wood .S"x j",/'x , ',., " ( For the pegs 
in the seat) . 



99 
i'ide for the 



Fifty-five yards of pith cane about 
seat of the stool). 

One sheet of No. 1 sandpaper. 

One sheet of No. }4 sandpaper, 
ne screw hook No. 10 (For coat hanger). 

Sixteen 1" brads (For the flower-pot stool). 

Four 1" No. 10 flat-head bright screws (For the towel 
roller) . 

Two l\i" No. 10 flat-head bright screws (For the 
towel roller).. 

Four IW' No. 10 flat-head bright screws (For the 
taboret). 

Twelve 2^" No. 14 round-head blue screws (For the 
clamps) . 

Twelve },i" cut iron washers (For the clamps). 

Ten 1}4" No. 10 flat-head bright screws (For the stool). 

One bottle of liquid glue with brush. 

Two 2-oz. bottles of the strongest ammonia obtain- 
able (For fuming the taboret and stool). 

One 2-oz. bottle of fumine (For the stool). 

One 2-oz. bottle containing four parts of boiled oil 
and one part of hard oil finish (For the taboret and stool). 

One IV2" flat paint brush. 



FEB 141907 



